Ales & Tails

Twickenham is probably best known for its rugby stadium, it’s also popular with young families, to the point where local schools are struggling to cope with demand. On the commercial roads a few small businesses remain interspersed with major supermarket chains, and the Harris + Hoole coffee shop (which provoked the ire of customers once they found out it was partially funded by Tesco) has a branch here. It’s the kind of place where a nice, family-friendly gastropub will do well.

Step forward Ales & Tails, which opened four months ago and ticks all the boxes: crowd-pleasing Sunday roasts, a special menu for rugby match days. During the week they offer more adult pursuits like cocktail masterclasses.

Part of the same group as south west London’s Lost Society and Gaslight Grill, which take inspiration from speakeasies and the Edwardian era respectively, Ales & Tails eschews an obvious look and instead has a warm, welcoming aesthetic; there is deep red leather seating in comfortable booths, a fireplace and subtle gold paper on the ceiling.

The menu is typically gastropubby, with the added benefit that chef Tommy Cooney used to work at the fantastic Roast in Borough Market. Like his previous restaurant, here ingredients are proudly sourced from the UK; white pudding is from Clonakilty, buffalo mozzarella is from Laverstoke Park, etc. The wine selection is small and inexpensive, with nothing costing more than £18.50, and there’s a wider range of craft beers.

We start with a generous portion of ham hock terrine which has chunky shredded pork, and toast, sliced gherkins and fiery English mustard on the side. Scallops are paired with candied bacon crisps and slices of oaty white pudding. They’re both strongly flavoured, good first courses.

A flaky cod fillet is placed on top of a mound of peppery, creamy crushed potatoes, with peas and salty chorizo. The slow-cooked ox cheek takes four days to prepare and it shows, as the meat is extremely soft; mashed potato and a very rich jus complete the dish.

As with the rest of the menu, desserts are staunchly British. There is a syrupy treacle pudding and the cheese platters stick to UK varieties, you can choose between one and four. We opt for the Camembert-like called Tunworth and a supremely mature, firm Cheddar.

Cooney’s menu may not break new culinary ground, but it’s certainly competent and skilfully delivered. A three course meal for two with wine is around £95.

Ales & Tails

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