London Menswear: AIL Talks To Guide London

We talk to London independent London menswear label Guide London about the fashion industry and the way the city inspires them.
London Menswear: AIL Talks To Guide London picture

Guide London is a London-based, men’s fashion label, run by brothers Jack and Richard Benson. We talked to them about the history of the brand, inspirations and London’s most stylish celebrity.

The business has a rich history. Can you tell us the story about how it all began?
Since it was established more than forty years ago and family has always been a big part of what we do.

Back then, it was known as Brute Menswear and was the brainchild of our father, Isaac. The harsh economic climate of the 70s meant that finding a job was difficult, so our dad took to the local markets of the East End selling men’s fashion he bought wholesale.

Not satisfied with the selection of designs on offer and as business and demand continued to grow, Brute began producing its own, innovative designs, moving away from retail and into wholesale. This proved an important turning point for the business, as it was at this stage that the company renamed itself Guide London and began supplying London retailers.

Fast-forward to the present day and we now divide our effort between supplying retailers and selling directly to customers through our website.


How did you get started in fashion?
Fashion was an enormous part of our upbringing and literally paid the bills in our house. There were always prints of new designs covering the dining room table and shirts and suits would hang from every available curtain pole and door handle. As a result, we never really imagined careers outside of the industry! For us, it was the norm that going out to work meant designing and making clothes.

Although our dad started the business back in the 70s, the family passion for fashion goes back even further. Our great-uncle was originally a tailor with an East End shop near Petticoat Lane Market, which was bombed during the Second World War. With his extra ration coupons he received because of the bombing, he purchased material that he used to make his own designs. Always a business-savvy chap, he sold the designs to American GIs taking local London girls on dates. From this, it’s clear to see that the family has never been satisfied with anything but their own creativity!

Describe Guide London’s aesthetic in five words.
Urban style from London’s heart.

What is the most satisfying part of running your own menswear label?
Like our dad and great-uncle discovered before us, the freedom to take designs where you want is the best thing about running your own label. There’s an obvious limitation imposed when shopping through wholesalers. It never worked for us as a business and we only flourished when we put pencil to paper and began coming up with our own ideas.

It’s also immensely satisfying to work alongside a generation who controlled a business in the past, as you venture into new territory. Dad’s guidance and his memories of what was successful 10 or 20 years ago still determines what we do now, however innovative new ideas are.

What is the inspiration behind your designs?
We take inspiration from everything we see, including day-to-day life in the heart of the city. It’s part of the reason why we never left the bustle of the East End; without its influence, our designs and our label wouldn’t be what they are today.

It has to be said that no design is ever the product of just one person. Everything is discussed among the team, including both of us, and our team of designers. In reality, each piece is a collective of our different ideas.

Where are the clothes made?
The majority of our items are still produced here in Britain, which is something we’re immensely proud of. That includes our fashion jackets and suits, which take pride of place in our collection.

Does London play a big part in the creative process? What is it about the city that keeps the fashion so fresh?
Definitely — we are Guide London after all.

London is without a doubt the most fashion-orientated city in the world. Although Paris, Milan and New York put up a pretty good fight, it’s important to remember that the British fashion scene is home to some of the industry’s most renowned designers, both past and present.

It also means that we’re up against fierce competition to stay ahead of the game. The pace of the city reflects the changing trends in fashion, which spurs us on to come up with fresh collections.

Whether you’re walking the streets or taking the tube, there’s something effortlessly stylish about London fashion. It’s this essence that we aim to capture in our pieces, combining urban relaxation with smart sophistication.

Who do you rate as London’s most stylish male celebrity?
It’s difficult to isolate one, since London has so many iconic male celebrities known for their sharp dress sense.

But if we had to pick, we’d have to choose London-born actor Eddie Redmayne (My Week with Marilyn and Les Misérables). First off, this chap’s a mighty fine actor, but he’s also well known for his great fashion sense. Redmayne carries off a sharp suit on the red carpet just as well as he does relaxed casuals on the city’s streets — something that not everyone can do.

Are there any other London-based labels that you recommend?
No designer label works in isolation. When you’re designing fashion, of course you’re going to look at what others are producing and, through the course of this process, come to greatly admire the work of others.

We are always inspired by the work of Patrick Grant, who is the director of Saville Row tailors Northern & Sons and founder of the E. Tautz & Sons ready-to-wear label. Grant’s work is distinctly British and it’s easy to see the influence of heritage labels Barbour and Burberry in even his newest collections. He’s also gone on to work with these British designers, bringing his inspiration and his impact full circle.

And we don’t just admire the huge labels that are known around the world. Sometimes, the work of a little-known designer starting out in the industry can be just as inspiring.

Finally. If one of our readers is going to a wedding this summer. What should they be picking out from the Guide London collection?
There are some things that, no matter how futuristic fashion becomes, should stay the same. And if you ask us, a wedding calls for a classic, sharply cut three-piece suit that combines formality and sophistication.

We’d recommend something light and fresh for the summer, like a light grey. Avoid high-sheen pieces that are more suitable for party occasions, although they’re definitely an idea for the evening reception. Opt instead for a subtle check to add interesting detailing and avoid a plain material.

For the ceremony, carry on the classic styling with a clean, crisp white shirt and a lightly floral tie. Again, the evening reception is the time to invest in dark, bold colours like purple or black — both of which will dramatically alter the appearance of the suit.

To view the Guide London collection click here.

Published Jun 13, 2014