Name: Boisdale Of Bishopsgate
Address: Swedeland Court, 202 Bishopsgate, London, The City, EC2M 4NR, UK
Telephone: +44 (0) 20 7283 1763
Rating: 5.5

I wanted somewhere nice but not too formal in the City to take a former client for a Christmas lunch – and I remembered that she said that Boisdales in Eccleston Street, Victoria was one of her favourites and so I booked a place at the Bishopsgate establishment.

Whilst just across the road from Liverpool Street station it was tricky to find – being down a somewhat dubious looking alley. But I arrived early and had time to browse around nearby Petticoat Lane beforehand.

With a covered smoking area outside the main entrance (important, I am led to believe, for the cigar smokers) at ground level there was a rather busy bar. I left my coat at the cloakroom and took the steps down to the basement. Here, I was immediately greeted by a friendly maître d’ who showed me to my table.

While I waited for my guest, I had a chance to look around. The red painted brick walls and arches are reminiscent of the other branch – and it all feels rather warm, friendly, traditional if not a little old fashioned. But the black and white prints all over the wall provide a nice touch and the dark green of the leather chairs made it feel rather festive. There’s a large and well stocked bar here – apparently there is an excellent selection of whiskies should you have the time to enjoy them.

The wine list is extensive – I have no idea how you would find time to read it in its entirety – but it’s good to know that there is plenty of choice for the discerning wine drinker. I opted for a bottle of the house Sauvignon Blanc (£29) which was excellent.

My guest opted for the special menu (The Jacobite 1975 menu - two courses for £19.75) because she desperately wanted the mini haggis starter. Her main course was a wild Highland venison burger with a bloody Mary sauce and thick cut chips. There were no complaints and her plate was clean at the end of the meal.

I opted for the Lochcarnan hot smoked salmon, new potato salad and horseradish cream (£10.75) which was delicious even if the salmon wasn’t warm. Although I had been seriously tempted by the scotch beef I decided to take the seasonal option and had free range bronze turkey, duck fat roasted potatoes, Savoy cabbage, pigs in blankets, sage and chestnut stuffing (£17.50) which I can declare was excellent.

Throughout our meal, the maître d’ and other waiting staff were polite and attentive but discrete. The place was busy but not unpleasantly so and I suspect that if you had turned up without a reservation – even in the week before Christmas – you would have been found a table.

Whilst I suspect that its Belgravia branch may retain the overall crown, the Bishopsgate option provides a delightful antidote to all the modern busyness of the City. I’m tempted now to try out the Canary Wharf branch – I can’t imagine how they would create the same atmosphere in such a modern development. So at Bishopsgate it’s traditional fare, traditional décor and good old fashioned service with a subtle smile. It would be an ideal venue for a work outing or a bunch of friends (particularly chaps) – and I should imagine that local Scots will be frequent fliers. And they run a Burn’s Week special (23rd to 27th Jauary).

Boisdale Of Bishopsgate

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