The Hoxton Grille

As one of Shoreditch’s biggest hotels it’s no surprise that The Hoxton has a mammoth bar and restaurant in its lobby. A cross between an American diner, a hotel bar and a convention centre, The Hoxton Grill is as relaxed a place as anywhere in this part of London. We comment on the waiting staff in a positive manner, our wait for the grilled meats is a short one, there are no mistakes and we are left at the end of the meal with a reasonable bill, content. So why is there that niggling feeling that all is not right?

Let’s break it down. The Hoxton Grill is an attractive, slick restaurant with a semi-open kitchen. There are comfortable booths, courtyard seating and plenty of space between you and your dining neighbours. The lights are dimmed as the sun sets, the music is all correct ambience and unobtrusive beats and everything feels ‘nice’.

The chicken wings are a delicious starter and we agree that both the hanger steak and the burger are up to scratch - although definitely opt for the béarnaise over the blue cheese sauce. Also on the menu is a selection of fish (tiger prawns, sea bream, salmon), ribs and doorstep sandwiches. A meal for two with starters, mains and a bottle of wine will set you back between £60 and £75.

The problem we find at the end of the meal, that niggling feeling about The Hoxton Grill, is its chic effectiveness. At no point do we get away from the fact that we are in a hotel. Guests sidle down in their casual wear and share the space with a Shoreditch crowd and it just feels a touch odd. Is that just us? Possibly, but what can you do but call it like it is. If you have a thing for hotel bars/restaurants then the Hoxton Grill will satisfy you. The food and service are great but that convention centre analogy may cause niggles for some.