London Fashion Week kicked off its AW16 season yesterday morning, with the requisite throng of the world’s fashion elite descending once more on a Soho car park to see the first five days of shows from the cream of British fashion talent. With a packed schedule of over 70 shows it’s tricky to report on everything, but stayed tuned for edited highlights. Here are some dispatches from Day One…
Marks & Spencer Launches Archive by Alexa Chung Kicking of proceedings on Thursday evening was the launch of M&S’s latest collaboration, a new collection with model/presenter/clothes horse Alexa Chung featuring a handpicked selection of pieces from the M&S archives, reimagined for the 2016 consumer. Key pieces include Princess-Diana-circa ’82 style frilly collared shirts, cute A-Line skirts, some rather chic wide-leg navy trousers (very 1940s Marlene Dietrich) and a rather smart olive green trench coat. In stores and online from April.
Natalie Massenet Receives Her Damehood Something of a change from the car park, British Fashion Council chair and founder of Net-a-Porter Natalie Massenet began her LFW with a visit to Buckingham Palace in order to receive her Damehood for her services to the fashion and retail industry. Wearing a cherry pink skirt suit from British couture house Ralph & Russo, she looked every inch the fashion queen she is. Bravo Natalie, bravo,
J JS Lee In a break from the norm, the first show of the day saw J JS Lee take to the BFC show space with a slick collection of chic minimalism. An alumni of the 2010 class of Central St Martins (alongside fellow LFW regulars Simone Rocha and Thomas Tait) the Korean-born designer has always had a taste for simplicity. While the layering was a little much for my liking, her wearable separates in black, white and grey are sure to wheedle their way into the power woman’s working wardrobe. A splash of sunshine yellow, poppy red and a coordinating giant tweed livened up proceedings; the cut and tailoring of the vibrant yellow coat was my highlight.
Alice Archer Having only graduated from the Royal College of Art last year, this was newcomer Alice Archer’s first foray into London Fashion Week and she didn’t disappoint - this is one to watch. Inspired by Kew Gardens and its 18th century botanical illustrations, the beautiful florals were translated into intricate lavish embroideries, on feminine silhouettes and detailed fabrications. Scarlet crushed velvet was completed with painterly ombré roses while birds of paradise danced across satin maxi skirts; I adore traditional craftsmanship, embellishments and embroidery and this is a collection that will forever be in my list of favourites; as a keen stitcher myself, it’s this kind of thing that gets me itching to pick up a needle and thread again. Showcased in a higgledy piggledy Georgian townhouse, the location fitted the collection to a T. She might be the new kid on the block but Alice is going places, she’s the one to watch.
Ryan Lo If Jackie JS Lee went for simplicity, Ryan Lo’s show (pictured) paved the way for the mantra that sometimes more is more. A cacophony of colour, it was a catwalk awash with romance, ruffles and roses in a vibrant colour palette of fuchsia, scarlet and purple, with frills of organza, furry jackets and Celia Birtwell-esque ditzy florals.
DAKS One can always rely on DAKS to bring some elegance to proceedings and their Friday showcase didn’t disappoint. From the very first look, a full length, prairie skirted, bishop sleeved gown in checked silk, it oozed sophistication. Predominantly black, accents came in the form of shades of tan, camel and caramel, with luxe detailing including velvet belts, lace sleeves and collars with velvet neckties and intricate pleats and fringing; all a glorious touch of the gothic Victoriana.
Charlotte Olympia Last but by no means least, footwear maven Charlotte Olympia Della took over Camden’s Roundhouse on Friday night for her first ever London Fashion Week show, bringing along a star studded line up of glamorous friends in the process.The show featured not only her heels, but accessories including bags, jewellery, sunglasses and hats, created in collaboration with Piers Atkinson. This season was inspired by 40s sci fi movies, though of course with a healthy dollop of her trademark leopard print.
Love Laurel x
