I’ve passed this lively and impressive-looking restaurant in the Adelphi Building on Covent Garden Riverside (five minutes from Embankment and Charing Cross stations) several times as it is right opposite one of my business clients. It’s tucked away on John Adam Street so you’re unlikely to walk past it unless you stray off The Strand. So it was only by attending one of its occasional wine dinners that I finally discovered what a gem of a place it is.
Americans and steak lovers probably know it well. Whilst the London restaurant has only been open for two years, there is a fascinating history around its American roots. Alan Stillman opened the first T.G.I. Fridays restaurant in 1965 in New York. When successful he sold it to a venture capital group and invested the money in his next project, opening Smith & Wollensky in October 1977 at the site of another venerable New York culinary institution - Manny Wolf's Steakhouse. There are now many Smith & Wollensky “classic New York steak houses” across the United States. His story is even on the syllabus at Harvard University!
I didn’t make it to the Independence Day celebrations but joined them for one of its wine dinners – in the largest of its three private rooms downstairs (which has a US flag that’s so old it has two of the State stars missing). So did other members of the public who are on the restaurant’s mailing list. These included those who knew the restaurants in America, wine connoisseurs, steak fans, City business people and people who just loved the vibe of the London restaurant.
I’m not a wine expert but the amazing five course dinner was hosted by operations director Nathan Evans and Brian from Duckhorn Vineyards in Napa Valley. Brian, in a relaxed but passionate manner, briefly introduced each of the wines and explained a little about the vineyards and heritage.
All the wines sampled were relatively youthful and light – but with surprising richness. My favourite was the Canvasback Red Mountain Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 which arrived with the generous cheese plate. My companion was most impressed with the first wine they produced 38 years ago – the Duckhorn Vineyards Howell Mountain Red Blend 2012. The dessert wine – Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2013 – was outstanding – and I don’t generally like dessert wines. A real shame that they only produce around 150 cases a year – I felt privileged to have been able to taste that nectar.
45% of the wines sold at Smith & Wollensky are American but there’s also an impressive range of French and Italian wines as well.
The food was pretty good too. There was a scallop with garlic and parsley butter. The duck rillettes had an amazingly dry texture but were full of flavour. Interestingly, they served a US sourced wagyu rib-eye steak from the incredibly named Snake River. As expected, the steak was cooked perfectly. The fries and mushrooms were as expected but the creamed spinach (which apparently takes three days to produce) was sublime.
It was a great evening. And I am tempted to attend the champagne evening they are hosting in September – places are strictly limited. But I will certainly add the restaurant to my list for both business lunches (especially when entertaining Americans if they want a taste of home) and for entertaining friends in the evening.
With 370 seats in the large Art Deco inspired upstairs and downstairs restaurants they certainly have enough space. And I really like the smart and professional but relaxed atmosphere. And with pre-theatre deals on Friday and Saturdays from £25 per head (the premium dry-aged steaks on the main menu start at £39) it’s an affordable treat. And yes, it has chicken, fish, shellfish and vegetarian options for those who don’t eat steak.
http://www.smithandwollensky.co.uk/american-wine-dinner-duckhorn-vineyards/
http://www.smithandwollensky.co.uk/
https://www.duckhorn.com/
