I’m definitely someone who would eat pasta daily if I knew I could get away with it, which is why I’m actually shocked it took me so long to visit Bancone. Dear reader, this was my first visit. I know. Shocking behaviour. Alas, I’m happy to confirm it was well worth the wait.
Born out of a shared vision for affordable, high quality pasta for everyone in a buzzy, informal setting, the result is a mostly Italian menu with touched of influence from elsewhere in Europe, with restaurant and counter seating and some of the best pasta in London. They launched the brand new autumn menu on 1st November and what a menu it is.
We kicked off with a creamy burrata and a selection of Italian salumi; finocchiona, coppa, san daniele and speck. The perfect duo to set you up for the main shebang. We were recommended three pastas between two and it was just the right amount. The tagliolini with truffle was our first, delicate and creamy and dripping in truffle shavings, though surprisingly not as strong in flavour as expected. The pappardelle with sautéed chicken livers, brandy and sage is to die for. Rich, wintry, hearty and indulgent, utterly full of flavour and certainly one to return for. My favourite though? The iconic signature dish that is their silk handkerchiefs, with walnut butter and confit egg yolk. A dish to be savoured, every bite was sublime. We finished off with limoncello semifreddo with pistachio and raspberry, a light and refreshing dessert after such a carb feast. perfection.
The Golden Square branch on a Monday evening was busy and buzzing, full of chat and chinking glasses (a wonderful sound when you consider this time last year…) so I can only imagine how packed it must be towards the end of the weekend. They weren’t kidding; this is among the best pasta in London.