Gordon Ramsay opened his latest venture Lucky Cat back in 2019; as his first new London restaurant since Heddon Street Kitchen in 2014, some may say it was overdue. Taking over the north side of Grosvenor Square, it technically sits within the Marriott hotel but is a far cry from his other establishments.
Dark, moody, mysterious, and very Mayfair, Lucky Cat has a clubby vibe with its black and red interiors and striking red neon branding. Seating is arranged in tables and booths and is plentifully spaced; one gets the impression it’s been designed to see and be seen, if you get the drift, despite the darkness making it tricky to read the menu.
But that’s what we’re here for after all. A pan-Asian spread of small plates, skewers from the Robata grill, sushi and sashimi and mains, with a heavy flavour focus on Japan and Korea, accompanied by a strong cocktail list.
The tuna tartare was delicate in texture with a good zingy hit from a chilli crunch and does of ponzu, though the beef tataki was somewhat drowned in shaved truffle; rarely a bad thing but certainly overpowering on this occasion and masking the tender sweetness of the beef.
The sushi rolls, particularly the spicy tuna roll with gochujang and cucumber, were good, fresh and crisp, while the ‘GFC’ 15 - Gordon’s take on Korean fried chicken with hot miso and black sesame - was the standout. Hot, sweet, crisp and sticky, it’s got fire to it but that seems to just make it all the more devilishly delicious.
A Korean spiced black cod shredded upon contact with the fork, sweet and delicate and nicely accompanied by an egg-fried rice we were told was ‘half-traditional, half Gordon’; mixed in person at the table with a XO sauce and a slow cooked egg, it was pretty tasty. The Thai baked stone bass, in a green curry sauce with mussels and sweetcorn was another great dish, very much enjoyed with a side of smoked BBQ aubergine. A yuzu and passion fruit soufflé ended the meal, with crème fraîche ice cream and citrus curd; fresh and light and a real palate cleanser.
Some may question what business Ramsay has in dabbling in Asian cuisine (who can forget the infamous video of his Pad Thai being absolutely destroyed by a Thai chef…). Lucky Cat’s food is tasty, granted, but with a Mayfair/Ramsay price tag attached to it, it’s certainly targeted towards a certain clientele, sleek and sophisticated as it may be. They’ve also just introduced a new bottomless brunch offering on Saturdays, £95 per head with unlimited Prosecco or lychee martinis. With dishes including sharing starters of omakase sushi, GFC chicken, pork belly bao, tofu bao, mushroom tempura, mains of Colombo spiced monkfish, baby chicken teriyaki and tom aha pumpkin glass noodles plus dessert, it’s perhaps a more affordable way to try the best of the menu.
Lucky Cat, 10 Grosvenor Square, W1K 6JP
