The Great Northern Hotel has had its work cut out. Next door is the grand St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel, an example of gothic architecture at its most impressive, self-styled as “the most romantic hotel in the world”. However the Grade II listed GNH boasts some remarkable style of its own, with décor that harks back to the Victorian splendour of when it opened in 1854 (making this the oldest hotel in London, despite being out of action for 12 years until re-opening in April). Designed by Lewis Cubitt, also responsible for King’s Cross station, in the 20th century the hotel targeted budget travellers, playing second fiddle to George Gilbert Scott’s masterpiece, but a £40 million refit is changing its fortunes.
While the Renaissance has the Gilbert Scott restaurant with superstar chef Marcus Wareing at the helm, the GNH has the more casual Plum + Spilt Milk, which is one floor up from the GNH Bar. It’s a beautiful place, with art deco touches such as the mirrored ceiling and glass chandeliers, overlooked by a mezzanine level where the private lounge is. Drinks are well priced, with good bottles of wine costing around £30 and options by the glass starting from £5.50.
There is an appealing cocktail list (mostly priced at £8-9) with signature drinks including the Queen Boudicca, so-called because of the legend that pinpoints her body to being buried somewhere under platform nine of the station. Homage is paid to the destructive warrior queen with a fantastically robust concoction of honey and cognac, garnished with fresh apple and sprinkled liberally with warm cinnamon. The 1854 is another potent cocktail, using the bar’s very own smoked pineapple syrup, crushed cardamom, Woodford Reserve bourbon and dry Noilly Pratt vermouth.
The Northern Sour is refreshing enough to go down all too easily, made with pink grapefruit, lemon, gin and Cointreau; similarly the French 75, where lemon and champagne are key ingredients, bolstered by Cointreau and thickened with egg.
And the bar snacks are definitely worth making a meal out of; there’s a fantastic Reuben sandwich with pillowy soft rye bread, even softer salt beef, melted Emmental and sauerkraut that’s been doused in tangy Russian dressing. The smoked mackerel pâté is incredibly creamy, and the Scotch eggs are moreish little bites filled with soft boiled eggs, served with chunky homemade piccalilli.
Whether you’re travelling or not, GNH Bar is worthy of a visit - a class act all round.
