Pacata

The makers of the famous Singha beer already operate several restaurants in their native Thailand, but this is their first European venture. For this Pan-Asian eatery just off St. Martin’s Lane they’ve enlisted a chef called Yasuji Morisumi, who became the first Michelin-starred ramen chef while at his Hong Kong restaurant Mist. There are just a couple of ramen dishes on the menu at Pacata, which is devoted to street food - mostly from south east Asia - fused with western comfort food. So for breakfast and lunch they have bahn mi, hotdogs with wasabi mayo or tonkatsu ketchup, and kai grata, a Vietnamese dish of fried eggs which you can choose to have with bacon and sausage, or Hollandaise and smoked salmon.

The build-your-own theme runs through the whole menu; aptly titled DIY papaya salad (£7.95) has optional soft shell crab for an extra £1, served with a bowl of lime and fish dressing. We’re advised to batter the ingredients together with the large pestle and mortar provided, but we prefer their un-beaten texture. KFC favourite chicken popcorn (£6.50) is more sophisticated than its junk food forebear here thanks to pandan leaves and spices.

Grilled chicken breast (£13.95) is available with Massaman, Japanese or green curry; the Massaman is very mild, and the addition of green beans, mushrooms and rice make this a wholesome, if slightly uninspired dish. The Korean burger (£9.95) is more interesting, with a medium rare beef patty that’s coated in chilli jam, plus a slice of cheese. On the side there’s mayo and red pepper paste, the latter toned down considerably compared to what you’d be given in Korea.

We like the moreish sweet potato fries which are served in a tin as is de rigeur for any pub, barbecue joint or fast food restaurant these days. They also serve water in jam jars, but faddish details aside, Pacata have cleverly combined two food trends and the result is very appetising.