Hoxley & Porter

Have you seen the newest Great Gatsby movie? If so, you’ll be accustomed to the art deco grandeur on display at Hoxley and Porter. If not, well, you’ve got both an average/over the top/stylish film to look forward to as well as a visit to a swell Upper Street bar.

As stated, Hoxley and Porter is stationed on Upper Street and will surely appeal to the well-heeled locals around these parts. It feels somewhat like entering a first class train carriage on the Orient Express when you walk down the narrow corridor entrance. The glass to your side is covered in gold etching and the tables are lined up to give an illusion of luxury living. We like that – but that area is reserved for those who want to sit down and eat. We don’t so we head to into Jay Gatsby’s lush dark lair at the back where indoor foliage, art deco wallpaper, Tiffany lamps and low leather armchairs create a striking look.

Some might accuse the bar-cum-restaurant of pastiche but we’d imagine they would still be happy to recline in the stylish space with cocktail in hand. Which brings us to our only problem with the place. Irritatingly penned prose on cocktail menus seems to be a ‘thing’ in London. Hoxley and Porter try it and it leaves us cringing. A simple list of drinks will do, personality doesn’t need inserting into menus. Still, the drinks are better than their descriptions. We enjoy the Rum Bongo – a daiquiri made with rum, lime, sugar and goji berry juice – as well as the ‘Chipotle off the Old Block’ (see what we mean), which heated us up with its mix of gin, sugar, albumen, lemon juice and chilli bitters.

If you are inclined to sit down and eat – and there is no reason why you shouldn’t in such a sweet little space – then you can expect steak frites, rack of pork and seared venison along with less meaty choices.

It may have dashes of pretentiousness within that menu but we can shrug that off. The style of the place is much more important, which is where it succeeds.