Spitalfields may have a lot of its charm since the market was transformed from bustling weekend hive into the limp incumbent of high street modernity of today but fortunately some of its restaurants are managing to keep the old history alive. As if paving the way for what was to come, the old girls’ school closed in 1974, preserving an ancient mix of heady timber beams and beautiful masonry in its former chapel. La Chapelle slipped in when others were having their heads turned by the recession and since then it’s the restaurant that’s been doing the head turning with the sort of formal dining that almost puts value into the high prices and while making an occasion of every visit.
In the dining room, rows of luxurious marble pillars truncate the spacious room that features a suspended mezzanine for private dining and a bar that often feels like the room revolves around it. However, that’s perhaps a little farfetched because it is all about the vertical here and the gaze is continuously drawn upwards toward the rafters. This is by no means the fault of the award-winning designers that have delivered the neat lines and shiny surfaces of bistro-chic below, just the fact that a vaulted wooden ceiling will always defeat the modern touch. The true competitor to the architecture though, is the food, and there’s no surprise that La Chapelle is in possession of a Michelin star in reward of its modern French menu, created by chef Jeff Galvin.
The signature entrée, lasagne of Dorset crab and beurre nantaise comes recommended for a reason, its sponginess is flecked by layers of paper-thin pasta that dissolve on contact with the fork and flavours that take you out of your seat. There is also the yellow fin tuna, which comes so lightly seared that it could almost make sashimi look overdone, however the coriander doesn’t make it snap quite as much as you’d like.
The tagine of Bresse pigeon is the signature main and with the accompaniment of aubergine puree, cous cous and a light harisa sauce there is a delicately varied collection of tastes that are capped off by the delicate rouge that beams from the meat. This is a true champion. Judging by the rest of the tables however, it’s the grilled fillet of Scottish beef that seems to be the popular one- how they love their red meat in the City.
Service from start to finish is impeccable and from waiter to sommelier the staff are knowledgeable and warm providing the sort of unimpeachable hospitality that comes with a restaurant of such high regard. Some might find the level ever so slightly suffocating but this just isn’t you’re everyday kind of place. So, rejoice in having your place swept after every course. A mixed clientele it is not, but in the centre of the City and with the RBS building looming large over the chapel, what would you expect?
It would be sad to deny yourself a stab at the desserts, in particular the sour cheeses that come surrounded by wafer thin slices of crispy bread and on this occasion accompanied by a glass of the vintage Gigondas 2009.
Once the grandeur of La Chapelle has been experienced, it’s just a matter of waiting for the next occasion that calls for sampling the indubitable elegance of a place like this and although at times it can feel a little Downton Abbey, it’s simply a beautiful place to eat a meal.
