Georgina’s, in banker’s haven Barnes, is small and bright, with white décor and a glass ceiling which allows for plenty of natural light. Vivid lime green banquettes add a child-friendly splash of colour; there will surely be plenty of mums popping in, kids in tow, for a mid-afternoon cake. Supposedly this casual, all-day café transforms into something more subdued in the evening, but who’s to blame them for making the most of the British Summer Time hours.
The dinner menu is Mediterranean-influenced; juicy pickled artichokes are paired with Pata Negra ham, peppery rocket and a light sprinkling of Parmesan, a dish that isn’t short on flavour. A bold octopus escabeche salad has small pieces of tender octopus marinated in a vinegary-orange dressing, with sliced carrot and pickled fennel. It’s livened up further with star anise and black peppercorns. A dish of cockles is milder by comparison, but even its buttery sauce has been tarted up with a hint of sherry, along with plenty of tarragon and crunchy asparagus.
The lobster burger is a splurge at £22 but a rewarding one; a tasty, meaty hunk of crustacean with a thick slice of tomato and oodles of mayonnaise is sandwiched in a seeded bun. Crispy, salted onion rings and chargrilled corn on the cob are thoughtful sides.
The pork chop (£17) has a good bit of fat on it for tenderness, and peas, shelled broad beans, and a tangy Granny Smith sauce make this a hearty option. Our super-gregarious waiter forgets the new potatoes we ordered, but we’re practically stuffed already and there’s still dessert to come: the passionfruit and lime cheesecake is great, rich with a little sharpness, but the set chocolate custard is a less interesting, denser version of a chocolate mousse.
Georgina’s is owned by Nicola Horlick, and if her name rings a bell, you probably picked up a newspaper in 1997. The investment manager and entrepreneur made headlines that year for taking 40 journalists with her to Germany to talk Deutsche Bank into giving her job back at subsidiary Morgan Grenfell.
The aim is that Georgina’s - named after her late daughter, who passed away at the untimely age of 12 - will become a chain of neighbourhood restaurants. Throughout her career ballsy Horlick has succeeded at pretty much everything she’s turned her hand to, and by calling in Adam Byatt of Trinity fame as consultant chef she’s clearly determined to pull this off too. It’s looking very likely.
