Potli- An Indian Market Kitchen

There are a few things that set Potli apart from other Indian restaurants. Firstly, they present themselves as an “Indian market kitchen”, with a menu focusing on dishes from India’s most famous market towns. Ingredients are locally sourced and handpicked by the chef, who tells us the portions, particularly where meat is concerned, are more generous than at other restaurants and gives us the specific weights to prove it (which sadly now escape me). Lastly, the restaurant has a bright, Mediterranean feel to it thanks to terracotta tiles, white walls and archways, we could be in a Spanish villa were it not for the shalwar kameez worn by the waiting staff.

As appetizers we are brought poppadoms, with a couple made from rice flour which almost smell and taste like freshly baked bread. The mango, tomato and tamarind chutneys are sweet, the exception being the mint and yoghurt dip. There is an enticing cocktail selection: the gin-based Tamarind Martini has a slight kick to it, while the Potli with gin, basil, cardamon and limoncello is an Indian take on the mojito.

The Pather ke Gosht bowls us over, double marinated lamb leg that has been thinly cut into steaks and cooked on a limestone griddle; we later learn that the double marination technique consists of tenderising the meat initially, then coating in yoghurt before cooking to preserve juices and flavour. The result is soft, juicy meat that bursts with citrus and spice.

The Bharwan Shimla Mirch is mellower; a whole red pepper is stuffed with mild paneer, potato, onion and sultanas, and cooked in the tandoor oven.

The creamy Keralan fish curry has tender chunks of tilapia in a lovely coconut sauce with hints of black pepper, while the Goan pork vindaloo surprises us by immersing tender pork belly chunks in a fiery sauce that hasn’t scrimped on the garlic, cumin or chilli.

A refreshing yet sweet mango kulfi is ideal post-curry, but we’re wowed by a sensual dark chocolate mousse spiced up with cinnamon.

Since opening late last summer word has spread of this unpretentious restaurant - there is almost a full house on the Tuesday we visit, no mean feat given the sheer number of eateries that populate this stretch of King Street. But with such excellent execution in the kitchen this won’t surprise anyone.

The three course meal, including pre-dinner cocktails, poppadoms and wine (a fruity Don Jacobo Rioja Crianza 2007 for £25) adds up to £85 for two.