"An impressive view and well-priced food"Review Rating: Reviewed by Leila
The Oyster Shed is a little tricky to find at first, as we get lost down an alleyway that leads to the Nuffield gym before arriving at this riverside pub. Housed in a vast, glass-fronted, high-ceilinged building, (the heating bills must be astronomical) it boasts an impressive view of the Thames and the Shard, with London Bridge being seconds away. Inside there’s heaps of space and a choice of sitting on the ground floor or on the mezzanine level, both areas benefit from the impressive scenery.
This recent addition to the Geronimo Inns chain sticks to the same formula as their other pubs, a well-priced British menu with a very decent selection of wines - a lightly floral Gavi di Gavi is just £26.
Despite the pub’s name there is in fact only one type of oyster available: Jersey rock oysters (priced at £10 for 6), which are a little salty and taste strongly of minerals, we like them very much. The salt cod fritters are plump fishy croquettes in crispy breadcrumbs, served with gloopy mayonnaise they are a stodgy delight. A lighter dish of smoked salmon “classic” is essentially heaps of the fish draped over salad leaves.
The juicy rib-eye has plenty of marbling and tastes charred on the outside; the crispy triple-cooked chips are lovely but the Béarnaise is just slightly too buttery. The griddled chicken arrives as two large hunks that are exceptionally tender, served with bubble and squeak containing crunchy chunks of cabbage.
The desserts are very traditional, there’s apple pie, treacle tart and sticky toffee pudding; we opt for the crème brûlée which is fantastic, with a layer of burnt sugar covering firm, thick custard.
The Oyster Shed may not win awards on originality, but its offering is great value for money - plus the view is a showstopper. A meal for two with oysters and wine is around £85.
Leila reviewed The Oyster Shed on Mon 27 Feb 2012