What better way to draw a close to “Blue Monday” than attending Gin School in Chiswick?
Just five minutes’ walk from Turnham Green tube station, the candle-lit bar at Charlotte’s Bistro was buzzing. And it was only 630pm. With the high stools around the well-stocked bar and animated staff all full, we were snuggled into a micro-booth and looked around us.
There was an interesting mix of people – some straight-from-works, some couples, small groups of women and even a business suit or two. We were told that quite a few were regulars – arriving each Monday for the latest update to Gin School.
And within moments, the nice man from Ish was with us. He told us about Ish original (in the red bottle) and new Ish Limed (in the green bottle). While we sipped the sample he explained that the creators were based in a bar in Madrid (the Bristol Bar) where they stock over 120 gins.
Apparently G&Ts are big business in Spain – and they like them in huge balloon glasses. Ish, like many favourite gins, is distilled in London. He explained a little about the production process – distilled with botanicals and then blended with distillates where herbs and other flavours are added.
He explained that the slightly oily consistency of Ish Limed was because as well as coriander and ginger, it also contains lime oil. When asked where else we could find Ish he ran through some of the upmarket places (including Gauchos) and more edgy haunts in Shoreditch. Torn between the choice of a martini (£9) or a G&T (£7.50) we decided to go with a refreshing G&T – the Ish man had spoken so fondly of them who could resist?
He moved on to talk informally to others at the Gin School (you can’t book – you have to take your chances and just turn up) so we reviewed the list of forthcoming Gin School events, the rather extensive drinks menu (there were pages of gins and some rather interesting cocktails and a good selection of wines by the glass from £3.50) and browsed the bar snacks menu. Along with charcuterie boards and special cheese there were some surprises like oysters (six for £12.50) and pig’s cheeks (£6.50). The sweet things (all at £6) had some interesting options too – blackberry meringue with burnt butter cream and pear tart with goat’s cheese ice cream. We were intrigued.
With our appetites sharpened by the gin, we decided to move into the dining area. Guided up a few stairs we were astounded to find it opened up like Narnia into quite a large area. It was modern and calm with textured cream walls compared to the huddled woody warmth of the bar below – feeling just a little bit Continental (although the food really reflects local produce) with some lazy jazz playing quietly in the background. Above us was a vast glass ceiling which I suspect is quite spectacular in the daylight. The tiny oil lamps on the table provided a gentle glow.
The deal here (although we are told that it’s all change in February) is two courses at lunchtime for £15.95 or two at dinner for £24.95 or three at £29.95. The menu looked good but appeared slightly on the heavy side so I decided to go vegetarian for the evening while my companion focused on the fish.
My companion’s starter of smoked duck and fine beans boasted long slivers of duck sprinkled with roasted peanuts that had been coated with salt and honey. There were some spicy pumpkin seeds in there too. She enjoyed it but wanted more dressing. My rainbow beets, pear with tiny nuggets of Binham Blue cheese was a delight – especially the fried crunchy lambs lettuce. I liked that while the beets were pale in colour, the expected deep red appeared in the dressing. It had a deep rooty flavour.
For the main course, my companion hadn’t been sure about the combination of roast Cornish bream with hispi cabbage and tomato but acknowledged that the delicate flavour of the properly cooked fish was preserved. The tiny brown shrimps added a good gustatory angle as well as a visual one. My roast oyster mushroom with sliced Jerusalem artichoke and rosemary goat’s cheese was a feast. Nice textures (including crispy parsnip flakes) and flavours and surprisingly satisfying. We washed this down with a glass of wine and the waiter proved to be a helpful expert in our choice of red and the house white was – as promised – light and dry.
When we asked for mint tea we were offered fresh or peppermint and were surprised that we received two proper pots. But it was so yummy that we drained them both. It was just a little after 815pm at this point and the dining area was pleasantly busy.
I’d happily come along to Gin School again but the lovely food and warm service will definitely tempt me back to the restaurant – a hidden gem of a place just off the main road in Chiswick. Apparently, there’s another restaurant – a little more formal we were told – down the road in Ealing too.
More details at http://charlottes.co.uk/bistro/
