Drawing back the curtains to be greeted by the mist rising over Belfast Lough, it was difficult to comprehend extricating myself from the cosy haven that was my suite at The Culloden Estate & Spa. Tucked in amongst a mountain of fluffy pillows, this is the way autumn mornings were meant to be spent.
I’d checked in the previous evening, having picked up a hire car at a soggy Belfast International Airport for two days of exploring Northern Ireland. Arriving in a cloud of grey mizzle, the glimpse of a log fire in the bar out of the corner of my eye told me everything I needed to know. I was in for a cosy stay.
The Culloden sits just a few miles outside of Belfast city centre, a majestic gothic mansion set back from the road to Bangor. The 105 rooms are spread across the main house and more modern garden wings, with many featuring original high ceilings and all of the Junior Suites feature views of either the manicured gardens or Belfast Lough - I was smug to discover mine had the latter. This year also saw the completion of a near £5m restoration project on the property, resulting in a brand new facade to one wing, larger rooms, a complete redesign of the Mitre restaurant and an upgraded spa.
Exploring the main house will lead you downstairs to plenty of armchairs and sofas to curl up in with a book, roaring fires, a snug drawing room for an after-dinner moment or a round of chess and more of those vistas out across the water. With a choice of two restaurants, I’d booked to dine that evening at The Mitre, the fine dining option within the main house as opposed to The Cultra Inn in the grounds, more of a pub/brasserie atmosphere and menu. I’m thankful I did; though more on that in a minute.
If there’s one thing The Culloden and its parent company Hastings Hotels is big on, its gastronomy, with as many ingredients as possible used in their dishes sourced from local suppliers. Something they’re understandably proud of, each table is graced with a little booklet defining the heritage of what’s used in its kitchens. From the award-winning Gracehill black and white puddings served at breakfast sourced locally in County Antrim, to free range eggs from Clements Eggs in Carrowdore, vegetables from Strangford Lough’s Willowbrook Farm and venison from the Baronscourt Estate in County Tyrone, the provenance of your plate is in front of you, in black and white.
Dinner should always begin with freshly baked bread - this time sourced from a family at the heart of the local bakery industry for three generations no less - which didn’t disappoint. An amuse bouche of smoked salmon, with capers and an English mustard emulsion did exactly what it was designed to, awakening the tastebuds for what was to come. For a starter, soft mounds of whipped goat’s cheese were accompanied by juicy slices of beetroot, shallots, pecans and a delicately sweet beetroot meringue. It was followed with some tender, juicy local lamb from the nearby Morne Mountains, with a hearty if a tad filling side of perl barley and winter vegetables. This is seasonal comfort food at its best.
It was after my main had disappeared that I was glad for choosing the table I did at The Mitre, with a window view to ponder, rather than dining down at The Cultra Inn, for I would have missed what happened next. As the sky above Belfast Lough began to turn to fire as the sun sank, I abandoned my dessert and sprinted up the stairs to my room with my camera, where I hovered, perched on my windowsill, for the next half hour as the most breathtaking sunset I’ve ever encountered danced across the sky, changing every moment from fiery reds and oranges to majestic shades of purple and rich pinks. It was a dazzling display and one I shall always remember.
After returning to my abandoned meal to finish my wine, the lure of the Crozier Bar’s log fire proved too much and I found myself drawn to an armchair with my book to see out the rest of my evening, before the lure of my bathtub and king size bed became too much.
The following morning, as I ponder how many of the pillows I could realistically fit in the tiny boot of my hire car, there’s a knock at the door, signalling the arrival of my breakfast trolley; a spread of the aforementioned locally-sourced foods calling out to be eaten in bed, whilst swaddled in a bathrobe and listening to the morning radio.
With a day of exploring the streets of Belfast and the rugged Irish coastline ahead of me, a full Irish breakfast of eggs, tomatoes, sausages et al. was really the only option. Accompanied by freshly squeezed juice, a pot of coffee and a bowl of sweet, crunchy homemade granola with yoghurt and fruit compote, my hunger was quite satisfyingly quelled.
Before heading out for my day however, there was of course the small matter of The Culloden’s spa facilities. While there is a gym and fitness class timetable for those who might be interested (obviously not…) I was more enticed by the swimming pool, jacuzzi, steam room and treatment menu, boasting an indulgent menu of ESPA treatments and spa packages that fuse advanced techniques with ancient therapies. Tempting as it was to stay in a cycle of spa-time for the rest of my trip, I somehow managed to lure myself away.
Despite being mere minutes from the city centre and on one of Belfast’s busiest roads, The Culloden has a knack for making you feel like you’re a world away from, well, the rest of the world. As we hurtle towards winter, a spa break staycation weekend of hibernation and delicious food should be high on everyone’s agenda. In fact, I might just start a campaign for it to be recognised as a treatment on the NHS such is its powers of revival and restoration.
Double rooms at The Culloden Estate & Spa start from £230, room only. Spa treatments start from £40.
For more information visit www.hastingshotels.com
