Taman Gang

As you emerge from the Park Lane entrance of Marble Arch tube you are practically in front of the huge dark, wooden doors of Taman Gang – talk about convenient. While enjoying a crafty fag before entering, I was entertained by the friendly bouncer lighting up the street side gas lamps.

The venue and atmosphere

As you enter the dark interior you hardly notice a cloak room/reception area to your left as you are forced to stare in breathless appreciation at the rich dark wooden walls which are decorated with a myriad of tiny tea lights interspersed with creamy white orchids. It’s a bit like entering a health spa in the Far East.

A willowy and impossibly tall hostess (dressed in an immaculate swirling, swishy dark red Grecian dress with matching shoes) took our name and chatted good naturedly as she led us down the vast dark wood staircase. Entering the cavernous bar area I nearly tripped on the subtly lit step down onto what transforms – from around 11pm – into a night club which is reminiscent of China Whites – although much, much classier. And more spacious.

This large bar/club area has a number of open seating areas with cushion blocks around low tables which can be reserved for the club (although there is a minimum spend of £100 per person). Buddha quietly overlooks proceedings. There were a number of staff stationed at the side of the bar looking ready to leap into action when you needed a drink.

Whilst the night club has been open for about five years, we were there to try out the restaurant and had arrived at 730pm on a Saturday evening. We were shown through a large side doorway to discover a line of beaten copper topped tables to seat from two to six people. Stunning carved doors provided a warm and intimate feel to the dining area – but you could still see through to the main bar and club area. It was private but buzzy.

The loos are an amazing experience. There is a stone paved floor creating the illusion of a platform with large pebbles around the sides and walls that alternate between floor to ceiling mirrors and more of that sumptuous dark wood. It is very dark. In the centre is a highly creative constellation of angular dark pillars or varying heights – hidden within the hanging ones are soap and water dispensers and sinks within the upright ones. It felt a bit like one of those themed cave queuing areas for an underground Disney ride. It took a bit of thought to work out how to enter the cubicles – as you have to move huge slabs of dark wood to become ensconced in a vast tomb like darkness. If guys worried about the time their women spent in the loos before, they are gonna be completely freaked here.

Clientele

On arrival there were one or two couples dotted around the low seating areas in the bar/club area. I then spied a largish group of rather young but well if scantily dressed girls (trustbunnies?) out at the start of their evening – they were seated at a long table over looking the main bar/club area. Apparently, the idea that you can do drinks and eat here and then wait for the place to transform into a nightclub is attractive for those who don’t want to traipse around the West End in their finery and high heels.

There was a group of Asian girls seated in the more open part of the restaurant (a round table for up to about 12) which transforms into a VIP area during club hours – but they appeared to leave after eating. Seated next to me was a table of three more mature women (and from their accents they weren’t from the UK) on a night out. Judging by the number of camera flashes, it was warming up to be party central as the evening wore on.

The food

My companion started with prawn dumpling with chilli soy (£6). These arrived in a bamboo steam basket and were surprising as they contained a whole prawn (rather than the minces variety) which was plump and moist if a little mild to taste. I ordered the soft shell crab tempura with yuzu mayonnaise (£12). The mayonnaise had a creamy, light lime-like flavour that I adored and the stunning black and red lacquer square dish was piled high with tempura. The batter was light and delicious but again, it was difficult to really taste the crab. However, my companion was ecstatic to discover that there were chunks of chilli tempura nestled in between the crab pieces.

My companion selected the sizzling beef fillet, bell peppers and chilli vinaigrette (£16) and was persuaded to order it blue. A huge portion arrived in a round earthenware dish – suitably sizzling and smelling gorgeous. He reported that whilst the beef was extremely tender (although cooked through) the flavour was a little overpowered by the soy sauce. I ordered wok fried king prawns with wasabi mayonnaise (£17.50). These large prawns arrived shelled but presented with them, on a bed of salad and with a very mild wasabi dip which was pleasant. This was a really light main course and I was glad that I had ordered some jasmine rice (£3) and wok fried sugar snaps, broccoli and choy sum (£6.50) which were tasty if a little soft. Overall, I would view the food as being competent rather than creatively cooked.

The wine list was good but not special. We opted for a reasonably priced (£29) bottle of Soave which was excellent and really good value.

The staff were really very friendly, instinctively smiley, and made an effort to chat to and charm us. They seemed genuinely intent on ensuring that everyone had a good time. It is rare to see such passion and commitment – they are clearly very proud of what Taman Gang has to offer.

This really is a most beautiful venue. Exotic. Sensuous. Mesmerising. Its success as a club is pretty much assured. It would certainly be on my list for a special night out with the girls although I might think twice about whether we ate in the restaurant – even though we were assured that restaurant diners were welcome to drink in the bar area until the club got underway.

Taman Gang

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