The Betjeman Arms

The newly renovated St. Pancras station is the setting for The Betjeman Arms. This gastro-pub - part of the Geronimo Inns chain - has made full use of the space this impressive building allows it, with a terrace on the concourse overlooking the trains, an outdoors space hanging over Euston Road, and a large dining area.

There is a homely feel, perhaps aimed at weary travellers in need of comfort, with mirrors, wooden cupboards and kitchen utensils lining shelves. Large windows that reach the ceiling are characteristic of the imposing station building, and fill the rooms with light. There is also a room available for hire should busy executives need to schedule a meeting on the go.

We nestle into a corner and order a bottle of Rioja Crianza Azabache from 2006/07 (£19.60), which is listed under their ‘smooth traditional reds’. Smooth yet with the characteristic oaky flavour of the Spanish wine, it perfectly complements the chicken, basil and summer vegetable terrine (£6.75) we have as a starter. It’s rich, meaty, and delicious, with a cherry tomato compote.

The smoked salmon, quails egg, watercress salad, caper and lemon dressing (£6.75) sounds very appealing. The description leads me to believe there will be equal portions of everything (greedy me) however it is in fact a large salad, with rashers of smoked salmon and an egg cut into quarters in dressing. It is also available as a main, however I wonder how one would cope with such a mammoth portion of leaves, as even I tire of cutting up watercress stalks after a while.

The roasted sea bass with asparagus and new potatoes (£12.50) is very satisfying. The sea bass is perfectly cooked and very flavoursome, while the asparagus has been baked and retains a little crunch. I ask for the sirloin steak to be well done, which it is; crisp on the outside yet tender on the inside. A large flat mushroom covered in ewe’s milk cheese sits atop it, and sautéed new potatoes complete the dish. (£13.25)

I’ve had some truly wonderful desserts at Geronimo Inn pubs, including a strawberry and mint cheesecake and an extravagantly rich chocolate mousse. The Betjeman’s raspberry crème brulee (£6) is a further addition to this list. With fresh strawberries and raspberries on the top as well as inside the custard, it is now competing to become my favourite pudding.

Our enjoyment of the meal leads us to prolong it by ordering the cheese board too: stilton, brie, and a cheese containing orange segments is served with an onion jam and crackers (£6.50). As we tuck in, French Friend remarks how she finds it odd that the British choose to serve their cheese with crackers and not bread. I suggest it may be to avoid detracting from the cheese itself; we’re certainly doing a good job of acknowledging it.

There are still plenty of drinkers dotted around the bar as we leave. The Betjeman Arms is certainly a good place to appease hunger and thirst after travelling; the food is comforting and the atmosphere is a cosy one.

Monday	Open 08:00 - Closes 23:00
Tuesday	Open 08:00 - Closes 23:00
Wednesday	Open 08:00 - Closes 23:00
Thursday	Open 08:00 - Closes 23:00
Friday	Open 08:00 - Closes 23:00
Saturday	Open 08:00 - Closes 23:00
Sunday	Open 08:00 - Closes 22:30

The Betjeman Arms

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