"The Service at Café de Paris..."Review Rating: Reviewed by Laurel
One is acutely aware that crossing the threshold of Café de Paris is unlikely to result in a quietly reserved evening of entertainment, however the new Friday night offering from London’s most glamorous bunker is like no other.
The Service is an immersive theatrical spectacular, merging burlesque and cabaret with a healthy dose of history from one of the world’s most renowned clubs; and what a history it has. From the roaring ‘20s to the big bands of the ‘40s, Princess Margaret’s 21st birthday party in the ‘50s to the secret A-list parties of the ‘90s, this is one show that offers a glimpse of the devilish debauchery that these four walls have seen over more than nine decades. If only they could talk.
Without giving too much away, prepare to be wowed. The Service brings together a plethora of performers from the club’s history, from Josephine Baker to Marlene Dietrich via cheeky maids and bellboys spraying champagne, soaring acrobatically above the crowd and sharing seductive secrets throughout the evening. The host and Maître d’, Reuben Kaye, has the audience in the palm of his hand; full of witty entendres, cheeky stories and dirty comments, he’s the star of the show; resplendent in glittering lipstick and envy-inducing false eyelashes he reminded us all ‘I didn’t get dressed up like this to live in your feeble memories’. He guides his guests through an evening of daring escapades, music, dance, laughter, drama and some impressive mammary pyrotechnics… It’s an evening out like no other and your jaw will most certainly end up on the floor more than once.
Guests can either book in for a space on the mezzanine to watch the show with waiter service and their own bar (£20) or indulge in a series of dinner packages on the floor, with the best seats in the house - dangerously close to action - accompanied by an £75 VIP dining package, comprising a three course meal and half bottle of prosecco.
Our starter of thick cut smoked salmon, accompanied by cucumber salsa and horseradish cream, was delicious, chunky and tender with a good kick to the cream. My main of truffle and ricotta tortellini with steamed spinach and chive cream was suitably rich and indulgent, though just the right portion size to avoid bringing on a carb coma and my guest’s steak was reported to be rather tasty, with an excellent side of perfectly crunchy chips. We finished off with a creamy passion fruit cheesecake accompanied with a couple of their dazzlingly delicious cocktails.
With the space turning into a dance floor until the small hours, Café de Paris certainly doesn’t do things by halves - it’s easy to see how this glamorous underground lair has retained its crown as one of London’s most indulgent party venues. For a night like no other, The Service offers a sparkling evening of entertainment you won’t be able to resist.
Laurel reviewed Cafe De Paris on Tue 24 Apr 2018