The All in One Ultimate Restaurant List Interview: Ian Rudge

This plush British restaurant in Knightsbridge first opened its doors in 1961. Now attached to the swanky Jumeirah Carlton Tower hotel, it continues to offer classic dishes without bucking to trends. Head chef Ian Rudge tells us more.

What does The Rib Room do that nowhere else does?
We offer a unique choice of contemporary British cuisine alongside ‘staples’ from the original Rib Room from over 50 years ago such as roast rib of beef and prawn cocktail. Many restaurants these days offer small portions or whatever food is trendy – and there are some delicious choices around – but we seem to be one of a very small number who stick to traditional, well-loved British dishes.

How would you describe your style of cooking?
Simple flavours, trying to keep true to the ingredients we are using, and trying to do our best to keep in touch with the British seasons, which at times with the unreliable weather, can be challenging!

Can you name a food you regard as a guilty pleasure?
Nando’s – it’s a great concept and I love hot, spicy food. It’s quick and easy, with no frills. I’d order a hot chicken and chips with a Sagres.

When did you decide you wanted to become a chef?
As young as 12 or 13. I got my first job in a kitchen at 15, washing pans, it was a great place to start as it really showed the importance of teamwork.

What’s the toughest job you’ve had in your career so far?
They have all had different difficulties to overcome; I would not say there is a hardest as they are just demanding in their own way, some physical, some more mental. It’s a tough industry and you need to work hard to get something out of it, but like any job, if you love what you do it makes the challenging times slightly easier.

Who or what have you learnt the most from in your career?
Martin Burge at Whatley Manor. He has to be one of the least talked about two Michelin starred chefs in the public eye, but he spent a lot of time with all his team, almost rebuilding us from scratch from the basics to the more advanced. I revisited Whatley Manor about 18 months ago for a meal and it was one of the best meals I have ever had. Also, Tim Allen who I also worked with at Whatley – he was a great inspiration and taught me a lot about modern food and food trends going forward.

Have any new restaurants excited you recently?
The openings of The Clove Club and Typing Room are definitely exciting, and I’m also excited by what Ben Spalding is doing with Stripped Back and No Rules, adding a more underground feel to the London dining scene. It’s an interesting concept and long overdue. The city’s dining scene is shifting slightly and it’s great to see people trying so many different things.

Do you have a signature recipe you can share with us?
Lamb sweetbreads.

Roasted lamb sweetbreads, caramelised cauliflower, toasted almonds
500g lamb sweetbreads
500g cauliflower
100ml full fat milk
15gr butter (unsalted)
100g mirepoix vegetables (a combination of celery, onions and carrots)
50g blanched almonds
0.025g lecithin (foaming agent)
5g thyme
20ml lamb jus

For the cauliflower:
Remove all cauliflower stalks and thinly slice them on a mandolin. Julienne then cook in the oven at 80 degrees centigrade for 3 hours or until crispy.

Take one of the cauliflower heads, remove the small florets and blanch the head before refreshing in ice-cold water. Cut the blanched cauliflower into small even-sized pieces and put in a pan with the butter and a little salt before placing cling film over the top of the pan and sweating right down. Once the cauliflower is soft, add a little milk and cook for a further 10 minutes before blending the mixture and passing through a fine sieve. Finish with salt and lemon juice.

Place the remaining cauliflower in a pan with a little oil so that it starts to colour. Then add the butter and roast for a further 2 minutes, before adding 5g of blanched almonds. When the almonds have coloured, remove everything from the heat and cool for 10 minutes. Once cooled, remove and roughly chop the roasted cauliflower, binding together with the puree - being careful not to make it too wet. Season to taste with salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon.

For the almond milk:
Infuse 100 ml of milk with some toasted almonds and thyme. Pass the mixture through a sieve and use lecithin and a little butter to make foam before service season well.

For the sweetbreads:
Soak in ice water for 24 hrs. Bring some water to the boil, season and add mirapoix vegetables and the sweetbreads before gently simmering for 6 minutes. When par cooked, allow the sweetbreads to cool and, whilst still warm, peel them and pat dry to remove the excess water. In a pan, add clarified butter and add the sweetbreads, cook until they gently colour. When they have a good colour, sprinkle with icing sugar and caramelise. Remove the sweetbreads and chill, leaving the foaming butter in the pan. Finish the butter with lemon, salt and a bit of lamb stock.