Dabbous opened amidst a huge flurry of hype, the likes of which London may have never seen before. Even Dinner by Heston didn’t quite elicit this response, with the restaurant becoming booked up seemingly forever, unless you wanted to pop in for lunch or eat at the downstairs bar, which is worthy of a visit in itself thanks to a cleverly composed, if reduced menu.
Ollie Dabbous was 28 when he launched Dabbous, with credentials including stints at Le Manoir Aux Quat' Saisons and Texture, where he picked up his restrained, minimalist style of cooking. The tasting menu was given a glowing review by mentor Raymond Blanc and 5/5 stars by Fay Maschler, the fiercest of critics. A clubby vibe, de riguer industrial aesthetic and incredibly knowledgeable staff have also contributed to this still being one of London’s most talked about eateries.
Dabbous
Address
39 Whitfield Street, Fitzrovia, London, W1T 2SF
Cuisine
British
Region
Fitzrovia
Nearest Station
Goodge Street (0.05 miles)
Website
http://www.dabbous.co.uk/
Monday - Friday: 12:00 - 15.00, 17.30 - 11.30
Saturday: Noon - 15.00, 18.30 - 23.30
Dabbous Picture Gallery
All In London Review
Yabba dabba Dabbous!
It’s still not easy to get a table - our lunchtime reservation was secured two months in advance and that was because of a cancellation. But like any in-demand place, it can often be worth trying your luck on the day as a walk-in, so don’t give up hope.
The space is austere and reminiscent of the New York dining scene: industrial chic, exposed ducts, wood and metal, with tables close together to maximise use of space. It’s perfectly nice but hey, no one’s here for the decor, and it’s suitably buzzy on a Tuesday lunchtime, no doubt because most people have waited months to be able to come.
One thing that hasn’t changed since last year are the openers of fresh green olives plus sourdough bread, the latter served warm in a paper bag with the day’s date stamped on it, accompanied by a walnut whip-shaped blob of home-churned super soft butter.
For lunch there is either a seven course tasting menu priced at £59, or a great value four course set menu for £28, all seasonal and aimed at clean and simple presentation. Economics coupled with the fact that the set lunch looked interesting led us to choose from it.
First up was toast of almost puff-pastry consistency, with salty lard combining with subtle black truffle; muscat grapes with lovage and almond milk was a rich, dessert-like starter for my companion.
Carrots in oxtail gravy would seem a bit simplistic on paper - it was literally a carrot in gravy with a blob of lavender cream. But what a carrot and what gravy; this is where you realised it’s all in the execution that makes this place a cut above the rest.
After struggling to eat the previous course with a fork and spoon with any degree of decorum, it was on to the mains. Lemon sole with warm potted shrimps was a perfectly cooked fishy delight. My friend’s barbecued beef (possibly partly sous-vide) came with an amazing roasted half of an onion, resembling one of the moons hovering over Tatooine in Star Wars. An intriguing Stitchleton buttermilk-based sort of cheese butter accompanied, which threatened to overpower the meat.
The desserts were great, particularly for those without a sugar fetish. Buratta with crushed apple, meadowsweet & hazelnuts acted as a half-way house with a cheese dish. Hot cashew nut butter with ginger & lime was served in a small pewter beer tankard, the zingy foam at the top belying the rich nutty liqour sludge at the bottom. Delicious...
Service was attentive but not overly formal. Dabbous isn't resting on its laurels, the food is first rate and the punters continue to come. See you in another eighteen months then.
Reviewed by Matthew B
Published on Nov 5, 2013
Young, trendy restaurant with masterly executed food
The industrial aesthetic – all exposed piping, wooden beams and metal mesh concealing coats and wine bottles - continues in the bar downstairs, where seasonal cocktails are put together by Oskar Kinberg, formerly of The Cuckoo Club. There are slight irritations to begin with; with the exception of one lucky table, diners are irksomely squeezed next to each other and every word from the neighbouring tables is comfortably understood (“Texture” and “cigar oil” pop up intermittently at either side). The music from the bar also seeps upstairs on occasion.
Although there is a distinction between starters and mains, the menu consists entirely of small plates. The tasting menu for £49 a head gives you a total of six courses and a palate cleanser, with an optional cheese course for a £9 supplement, alternatively you may want to order at least four dishes from the à la carte.
The staff are friendly and talk passionately about the food, the wine is recommended by an attentive sommelier. We’re charmed further by the brown paper bag with today’s date on it that arrives at our table containing freshly baked nutty sourdough.
The beef tartare with cigar oil, whiskey and rye is wonderfully executed. The predominant flavour is the irony beef, which the accompanying herby cream merely emphasises. The mashed potato with roasting juices is extremely creamy, perfect with shavings of black truffles.
The braised veal cheek is thickly sliced, succulent and sweet; it is surrounded by a light foam, with puffed-up spelt having absorbed the clear St Gall Broth. Another dish has a huge grilled scallop with a silky virgin rapeseed mayonnaise and a tasty Jerusalem artichoke.
A thick cut of Iberico pork, barbecued but served rare proves that Dabbous clearly knows how to handle meat. He pairs the pork with a nutty acorn praline and homemade apple vinegar. Perhaps the weakest dish is the roast king crab, as the two pieces of crab and crunchy cabbage leaves sit in a sauce that tastes of little more than warm butter.
For dessert, the barley flour sponge soaked in red tea with Tahitian vanilla ice cream is light and subtle; another simple combination of vanilla ice cream with bee pollen, sweet but earthier than honey, is remarkable.
Not every day does a chef come along who uses textures and ingredients so deftly. Dabbous is set to do very very well indeed.
Read our interview with Ollie Dabbous here.
Reviewed by Leila
Published on Feb 14, 2012
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Ollie Dabbous’ first restaurant made headlines for its fantastic tasting menu with dishes like beef tartare with cigar oil, whiskey and rye, and for the impossibility of getting a table without at least a three month wait.
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It’s easy to run out of superlatives when describing the food at Ollie Dabbous’ first restaurant. The best way to experience it is with the well-priced tasting menu, which is £59 per person.
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It’s impossible to get a table in the evening, but the lunchtime set menu features some of the same extraordinary dishes as the main menu. £28 for four courses.
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The seemingly eternal waiting list for a table at Dabbous means that many traipse downstairs to the bar instead. This is no bad thing, as along with smart cocktails made with Scandinavian spirits, aged bourbon and freshly made syrups, bar snacks like crispy chicken wings with fenugreek and toasted garlic areof a very high standard too.
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There was a furore of publicity surrounding the launch of this mega-trendy eatery, with Raymond Blanc's disciple Ollie Dabbous at the helm. The hype has never died down and happily the food is just as good as when it first opened. If you can't get a reservation, the downstairs bar has some of the same dishes as the restaurant, or you can head there for lunch instead.
User Reviews
Jun 24, 2012
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