One would be forgiven for not being familiar with Dukes London. Tucked down a sleep side street in St James’s, it’s gem of a find, mere moments from Green Park and yet seemingly in another world from its contemporaries.
Nestled on its lower floor is GBR (which stands for Great British Restaurant), a bright, spacious all-day dining experience with a menu of simple dishes that don’t stray from a classic British style. Open all-day, every day from breakfast through to dinner, menus are overseen by Norfolk-born Executive Head Chef Nigel Mendham and feature traditional British dishes with contemporary twists.
Every Saturday and Sunday from 12-4pm is Bottomless Brunch time where, for £24.50 one can indulge in two dishes from the menu with unlimited bubbles for an additional £15. I’m a big fan of a bottomless brunch but admittedly I usually end up in a raucous Clapham pub for mine; swapping for a change of scenery to a delicate civilised dining room made for a pleasant change.
The menu features a selection of brunch staples with delicious sounding additions including confit duck hash and kedgeree. The Eggs Benedict featured a succulent slab of ham and a delicious Hollandaise, though the portion was slightly on the small side. I chase the eggs with a plate of waffles, smothered in a devilish caramelised banana sauce and sticky toffee walnuts; something so delicious I’ve since tried to recreate it at home. My date enjoyed the smashed avocado with rich duck egg and chilli pepper, followed by a much-lauded round of French toast with sweet cured bacon and lashings of maple syrup. I’m not sure how we had space for dessert after all that and in between all the prosecco, but the raspberry trifle was a summer delight.
We pootled out very full and very happy after what turned out to be a delightful treat of a Sunday brunch, in what is undoubtedly one of London’s loveliest dining rooms.
