Named after a famous Mexican politician and started by an Englishman, Benito’s Hat’s initial game plan was to change the state of London’s mediocre Mexican food offerings. Seven years later and the Mexican boom is in full flow. With locations over the city, we chose the Covent Garden restaurant to sample the indie chain’s take on burritos, tacos and margaritas.
Lively, colourful and streamlined, the restaurant is a burrito-building machine. The bar at the back contributes to the informal sit-down space but this is street food brought inside and doesn’t pretend to need to offer more than a seat at a table to enjoy the main event – the food.
We eat the braised pork and the steak burrito to compare and contrast the offerings. Now, everybody knows pork is the ultimate burrito filling but we had to give both a go. Having done so, we can report that the pork still rules the wrap. The beef is tender and moist but just doesn’t posses the stringy, pulled quality of slow-braised pork that sinks into the likes of refried beans, salsa and guac so elegantly. That’s the other bonus at Benito’s Hat, guacamole comes added at no extra cost – unlike some fast-Mexican outfits we could name.
If you’re looking for cheap eats that will leave you as stuffed as the burrito you’ve just eaten then we can see no reason whatsoever why you should be going anywhere other than Benito’s Hat. Allergic to tortilla? Have a naked burrito. Don’t eat meat? Eat the grilled vegetable burrito. Can’t eat without alcohol? Wash it all down with a margarita (two-for-one happy hour, everyday 5pm-7pm).
