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El Cantara

Moroccan Restaurant in Soho
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No longer at this address

Our records show that El Cantara is closed.

Address
45 Frith Street
Soho
London
W1D 4SD
Map
Current
Cuisine
Moroccan
Region
Soho
Nearest Station
Leicester Square
0.20 miles

All In London Review

Medley of Spanish and Moroccan hits is pleasant, but far from great

Tackling two types of cuisine, especially when they’re as particular as Spanish and Moroccan gastronomies is an audacious feat. El Cantara is seemingly attempting a ‘greatest hits’ of the two countries.

Set over two floors and comprising a shisha terrace, El Cantara have sided with Moor-influenced Spain on the ground floor (think Arabic arches, tiled flooring, brightly coloured cushions) and Moroccan design on the first floor with brass tables and tiling on the walls.

Fans of staple tapas dishes will be pleased to know tortilla and patatas bravas are on the menu, as well as the sweet Moroccan pastille of chicken and spicy soujouk. Main courses include tagine, paella and grilled meats served with cous cous or rice.

The sweet potato croquettes are an interesting twist on a classic and are served on a bed of tasty lentils, with a drizzle of somewhat bland garlic mayonnaise. The Spanish fish cake is almost meaty in texture with a flavour that hints at no fish in particular, however the herby, broad beans fried with slices of smoky cured meat and onion are delightful. The mussels are also very good, having absorbed the saltiness of the tomato and parsley broth they’ve been cooked in.

The sizzling fish tagine seems to lack the “tangy, spicy sauce” mentioned on the menu and is a tad on the mild side; the chunks of salmon and white fish are adequately cooked, but blander than one might have expected. The grilled lamb fares much better, the aromatic minced meat arrives on two ornate skewers and is accompanied by a pot of fairly mellow harissa.

At some point throughout the meal the obligatory belly dancer materialises, encouraging diners to join her. Unfortunately for her, most people seem more intent on finishing their dinner, and she flounces off after just one song.

Desserts are very pleasing; the crema Catalana is cinamonny and creamy with a hard, caramelised top, while the chocolate and date cake is rich, filling and has a fruity aftertaste.

As an analogy for the entire experience, the Sangria tastes of coconut, as if they’ve added Malibu instead of brandy. El Cantara is pleasant, but it’s unlikely to send nearby Barrafina or Momo into an envious panic anytime soon.

Reviewed by Leila
Published on Jan 16, 2011

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