"Coq d’Argent is archetypical City restaurant"Review Rating: Reviewed by Leila
Coq d’Argent is an archetypical city restaurant - located above Bank station, it’s packed to the rafters with very loud, very drunk middle-aged American bankers, and equally lairy, inebriated, middle aged British bankers, while others are keen to impress their dates with food that’s “reassuringly” expensive.
Which it certainly is. The brandade, a starter that is essentially a cod fish cake with a bit of Parmesan and dried beef, is priced at £9.50. The mushroom parfait requires a bit more effort; it’s a creamy, gelatinous cube with earthy flavours and the warm, rich musk of truffle dressing, but it’s also just under a tenner for a small slab, served with mini cubes of pickled veg.
For the mains we have the cabillaud, a hunk of cod that has a lovely meaty texture, but suffers from overzealous salting, and comes with fennel, a few shellfish and a rich olive oil mash. The ostentatious rossini pairs a fillet of beef with pan fried foie gras, sautéed wild mushrooms and more truffles - it is their season after all. It’s a splurge at £39, but it hits the spot.
Another selling point of Coq d’Argent is of course the view; we’re on the top floor of the poultry
building so the Gherkin and St. Paul’s Cathedral are straight ahead. There’s an outdoor bar with a lawned terrace open for alfresco dining all year round, kitted out with heaters for the winter. On a more grisly note, in the last five years four people have committed suicide here by plunging to their deaths from this very terrace - tragic for them, their families, and for the restaurant.
Part of the D&D stable, the restaurant has been going for over a decade and has had the same chef, Mickael Weiss, ever since. It’s been pleasing city folk since its inception, although it’s not quite the same if you have shallow pockets.
Leila reviewed Coq d'Argent on Wed 11 Dec 2013