"Fine dining Italian by Grosvenor Square"Review Rating: Reviewed by Leila
This modern fine dining Italian is attached to the four star Millennium Hotel overlooking Grosvenor Square. The dining room follows the tradition of hotel restaurants catering to business clientele: neutral surroundings for busy, travel-weary guests. On the Tuesday evening we visit there’s a smattering of American and French diners presumably staying here, some tapping away on MacBooks, some dining alone, while a private room is filled with suited men.
The menu is modern Italian, so the amuse bouche includes macaroon-like concoctions that are actually crispy beetroot muffins stuffed with gorgonzola. The bread is made freshly in-house and is fantastic, particularly the warm, doughy potato and rosemary focaccia.
A soft, slow-cooked egg oozes over wild mushroom and aromatic black truffle, dotted with Parmesan crisps. There’s also a smear of that highly haute cuisine flourish: foam. Their take on the Caesar salad has pink, salty veal in rolls plonked among salad leaves in creamy dressing, smoked potato, and more black truffle, given that it’s season. Both are very good.
The lemon sole tempura is nice firm fish but on its own a little bland, however the bed of trompette mushrooms, candied onion and Jerusalem artichoke soup lifts the flavour. Perhaps our favourite dish is the English pork fillet, sliced into cubes to reveal rosy-pinkness in the middle, along with slabs of pork belly with the top layers cooked to a bacon-like crisp. Instead of the traditional apple sauce there are small dollops of quince chutney, along with a slice of lasagne with Swiss chard and Taleggio cheese, and a single green tortellini.
Given its Mayfair address and affluent customers the menu is priced accordingly, with starters between £10 and £15, and mains upwards of £20.
Leila reviewed Avista on Thu 22 Oct 2015Review disclosure: reviewer was invited to review