"Sardinian meat restaurant is a treat"Review Rating: Reviewed by Leila
If you walk down Belgravia’s Elizabeth Street you’ll pass a restaurant called Olivocarne, an ice cream parlour – or gelateria rather - called Olivogelo, and a pizzeria named Oliveto. Add further restaurants Olivo and Olivomare, along with next door deli Olivino, and you have a mini-empire of Sardinian eateries, all in the same fabulously wealthy neighbourhood.
Meat-focused Olivocarne has folky, primitive-inspired artwork on the walls featuring shepherds and hunters, however this doesn’t distract us from the fact that we’re in Sloane Country.
The food includes chargrilled steaks, offal, and pasta dishes with duck sauces and homemade sausage. There’s plenty of veal on the menu - no longer maligned thanks to RSPCA-approved rearing methods – and a starter of thinly sliced poached veal is sublimely paired with rich tuna mayonnaise and tangy capers. Another dish with silky little rashers of cured lard on Sardinian crispbread should be a bigger hit than pulled pork – so it’s £9.50 for a plate of it here, but we’re not standing by a truck eating it out of a paper cone.
Like the above, the slow roasted suckling pig will send the health conscious into a panic with its portions of milky, tender pork with generous layers of fat and skin so crisp it crunches. The hearty-sounding lamb and fennel casserole becomes a very refined main course by forming shredded lamb into meatballs and cooking with a rich ragù, with fennel and mashed potato on the side.
The tiramisu is sinfully creamy; the sebada – a delicious pastry fritter stuffed with cheese and cloaked in honey – is something that should probably only be tried once in a while. Unless you have a bulging wallet the same goes for Olivocarne, but it’s a very pleasing treat.
Leila reviewed Olivocarne on Mon 21 Oct 2013