Arbutus is fantastic value for money. This fine dining restaurant in Soho has a set lunch menu that is just under £18 for two courses, plus every wine is available by the 250ml carafe, giving diners far more choice than at most restaurants. An elegant counter at the bar is perfect for solo diners; overall the atmosphere here is wonderfully unpretentious. Unsurprisingly it’s usually packed. And we haven’t even got on to the food yet, which is highly accomplished European cuisine that changes quite drastically with the seasons; examples of their winter menu include warm crisp pig’s head with potato puree and wild seabass with gnocchi, mussels and bergamot.
Arbutus
European Restaurant in Soho
Restaurant Facilities
Children Welcome
Credit Cards Accepted
Booking Advisable
Arbutus Picture Gallery
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All In London Review
simplistic excellence
Antony Demetre's Arbutus was the lunchtime port of call, simplistic excellence was expected and there were few disappointments. A lunch menu should be a window to the delights of a la carte eating, Arbutus' set menu is right on the money.
Classy presentation transformed a modest two slices of succulent pig cheek boudin into glimpse of springtime ahead, the acidity of the dressing piercing the fatty goodness of the pork. However, the most remarkable component was the leaf itself, splashes of white flecked with purple and vibrant green a testament to high calibre produce sourcing. A hearty soup seemed a wasted opportunity, so accommodating a generous replacement of the signature Squid & Mackerel Burger emphasised the exceptional relaxed service. A winning combination of attentive, friendly and brilliant efficiency. The squid was delicious and unsurprisingly the standout dish, a strong draw to return and sample the kitchen's full menu offerings.
The main courses were further value for money, a hearty chunk of beef cheek braised to the point of wonderful disintegration, and a smaller cod brandade perhaps packing a slightly too garlicky punch. Proceedings were rounded off with a clean custard tart with rhubarb and a plate of Morbier. The cheese the only dish lacking in portion size.
With it's relaxed yet elegant dining room the lunchtime buzz is infectious. This atmosphere is enhanced by the waiting staff, and the feeling of a real treat for the amount written on the bill. Three courses, an a la carte supplement and a carafe of wine from the impressive wine list for £47.14 for two people's close to perfect prologue to a West End matinée. Entering with expectations can be a dangerous dining practice, although when a restaurant delivers above and beyond it can make it all the more memorable. Arbutus' lunch was certainly a picturesque window to an evening's a la carte, and with Demetre's Wild Honey and the recently opened Les Deux Salons shimmering in the horizon, the view seems more enticing than just a single return trip.
Reviewed by James Whiting
Published on Jul 6, 2011
User Reviews
RiccyM
Mar 22, 2011
Excellent and unusual food, clearly cooked with enthusiasm and dedication. I thoroughly enjoyed the rabbit cooked in three different ways as a main course. The tarte tartin had lovely caramelised apple although the pastry could have been more crisp. Excellent service from a really good Italian waitress.