An evening stroll to Hakkasan ends in a strange alley, seemingly no place for a social elite eatery. Dim Sum was the plan, an ambiguous website at fault for the assumption of availability during evening service. Plan B was required as Hakkasan has the potential to impress with it's slick interior, in addition to the ability to rapidly devastate a credit card. Many dishes can seem overpriced, however, a careful menu navigation was possible. Two Dim Sum platters, seafood and vegetarian respectively, duck spring rolls and a lotus root with asparagus side order provided good portions without excessive spending.
Cocktails arriving at tables all around enticed with their elegance, a fresh lily peering over a nearby Martini glass nearly prompted a splashing out to fit in. Hakkasan's reputation had proceeded it and while browsing the menu and awaiting our platters a feeling of another world hung in the air. This was a harsh preconception, with the waiting staff formal but polite, and the surroundings impressive in their beauty. The arrival of the kitchen's efforts washed away any intimidation. Good food is engaging for those sharing it, and the glamour of Hakkasan's dining space transformed from imposing surroundings into a delightful romantic backdrop in which to spend an evening.
Presentation is traditional yet in keeping with the slick ambience. The array of dumplings were light and flavoursome, without real need for the selection of dipping sauces placed around the table. The spring roll of undoubtably high calibre produce will not shock nor impress with originality, while the stir fry added a clean lightness to the meal. A demonstration of the skill in how to cook a vegetable with exactly the right amount of crunch. The food did its job and took centre stage, so much so a pudding had to be tried.
The dessert menu is a departure from the Chinese, albeit influenced from the shadows. An Orange Blossom Panacotta crowned with the most deliciously refreshing of pineapple and shiso sorbets, was well complemented by slow-cooked pineapple and Sake jelly. A truly sweet way to end an early evening meal, washed down with a pot of Bespoke Jasmine Green Tea from fellow Michelin starred Chinese and sister restaurant Yauatcha.
Hakkasan is by no means value for money, and perhaps a cynic would find the atmosphere and certain clientele buzzing with pretension. However, the Chinese food is excellent, excellent enough to silence a critic, well perhaps until they begin to read the bill.
