Galeto

In terms of trends, chicken being the new burger has had its day now that veg is the new meat. That doesn’t mean casual restaurants devoted solely to chicken aren’t profitable, as evidenced by Clockjack Oven and Chicken Shop (particularly in the case of the latter, thanks to the PR machine of owners Soho House group).

Galeto’s USP is Brazilian street food. Their name means “little chicken”, however there is only one poultry dish on the menu: half a baby chicken marinated for 24 hours before grilling. It’s £8.90 and includes fries, making it excellent value, but a whole day of marinating should really produce meat that’s saturated with flavour, and this isn’t. Even topped with creamy garlic dressing it’s very subtle (other choices are spicy coriander and a very incongruous-sounding tropical fruit barbecue sauce).

The picanha steak is a choice cut in Brazil which roughly translates as rump over here. It’s appropriately char, pink on the inside and well-seasoned; Galeto also do some great starters: coxinhas de frango, which are little dumplings made from potato dough filled with rich bits of chicken, and kibe, well-seasoned picanha croquettes that are more like flattened meatballs.

To “drink” we have caipirinha sorbets, but they don’t tell us these are actually desserts. As it’s a hot evening they double as good palate cleansers, as they’re essentially iced versions of the cocktail. For our actual dessert fried banana is unexpectedly soft instead of being crisped up from pan-frying, but we like the orange, lime and cinnamon syrup it’s coated in.

While the signature dish lacks a bit of wow factor there are other tasty things to try, and all at good prices.