It seems that not a week goes by without another restaurant opening or closing its doors in Soho. Some good, some bad, some decidedly ugly, Brewer Street’s Wild Rice most certainly falls into the former category.
Cute and cosy, there’s only 36 covers but the menu makes up for the lack of space, featuring bold, punchy flavours in a range of small plates and reinventions of classic Thai dishes, passed through family generations, with seasonal British ingredients.
Starting our feast with the satay tofu, it was possibly the most delicious version of this often bland ingredient I’ve ever encountered, with a crispy outside crumbling open to reveal delicious oozing molten tofu in the middle, drenched in a creamy satay sauce. I didn’t even know it could do that. A classic Thai calamari was crispy and moreish while the Hat Yai crispy chicken wings were full of subtle spiced flavour.
The Pad Thai was exceptional; it may have been a basic choice given the menu of a dozen delicious options and one that’s available in every Thai restaurant this side of Bangkok, but with every individual element of it a building block of the perfect dish it was wholeheartedly enjoyed. On the other side of the table a creamy chicken ‘Khao Soi’ curry was met with satisfaction, a silky fistful of flavour in a turmeric, galangal and coconut coup with crispy noodles and sweet shallots. A token side of Thai avocado salad didn’t disappoint, a crisp bowl of avocado, courgette, radish, garlic and lime dressing a refreshing palate cleanser with our mains.
While the above left little room for dessert, there will certainly be a return visit, particularly as there’s also a rather affordable lunch menu available as well. For authentic tasty Thai in the heart of Soho, with a cosy atmosphere and killer wine list to boot, Wild Rice is one you’ll want on your must-eat list.
