Leon de Bruxelles

24 Cambridge Circus, Soho, London, WC2H 8AA
Leon de Bruxelles image
Ad
Review Summary from 1 review

Address
24 Cambridge Circus, Soho, London, WC2H 8AA

Cuisine
Belgian

Region
Soho

Nearest Station
Leicester Square (0.16 miles)

Renowned Belgian brasserie Leon de Bruxelles has arrived in London, bringing you the tastiest mussels in town.

Leon de Bruxelles Picture Gallery

Leon Mural Interior
Leon Mural Interior
Leon Interior
Leon Interior
Leon Waffle
Leon Waffle

All In London Review

Tasty mussels, but room for improvement

Léon de Bruxelles is the London branch of Chez Léon, an established moules et frites chain in France and Belgium. The London sibling is on the site of what used to be a Med Kitchen, on Cambridge Circus. Being on the West End’s main crossroads means passing trade is guaranteed, and the family-friendly, fast-foodish layout of the restaurant suits the fact that Leicester Square is a stone’s throw away. Even the menus are cheerfully shaped like mussels, that when opened “look like hearts” as the dining partner points out.

There are ten mussel dishes on the menu, three of which are gratinated and available as starters. The three cheese mussels are great, with Cheddar, Gruyere and Roquefort melted over separate parts of the platter so as not to confuse flavours. A large pot of Ardennaise mussels is very satisfying, containing a rich white wine and crème fraiche sauce with mushrooms and a generous amount of delicious smoky bacon.

A starter of fried breaded smelts, which are a little like whitebait, make a tasty savoury dish with homemade tartar sauce.

We’re a bit surprised when a portion of chips arrives with the mussels we’ve ordered as a starter and a further two arrive later with the mains (do they really think we can eat that many?) but more importantly, these are run-of-the-mill chips, not the thin salty frites Belgium is so famous for.

The Flemish carbonnade is also a bit of a let-down. The beef has supposedly been stewing for 6 hours, which should make it fall apart when prodded, but it doesn’t. And the most prominent flavour is that of carrots.

The Grand Pere Léon’s Waffle is another disappointment as it’s served cold and is dry like day-old bread, but it’s redeemed a little thanks to the gloopy hot chocolate it comes with.

Surprisingly the selection of beer is very limited, with only four Belgian varieties, one of which is Léon’s own brew. There is however an extensive selection of spirits, and the wine list has some interesting choices like Muscadet and Sancerre, priced between £16 and £60.

The fact that they’ve stopped serving breakfast since opening at the end of January suggests business hasn’t been going all that well. The mussels are worth going for, but the chips and waffles need to improve. A three course meal for two with wine is around £80.

Reviewed by Leila
Published on Feb 27, 2012


User Reviews

There are no user reviews
Have your say

Add a review or useful tip for this restaurant

Add a review Add a useful tip

The Nearest Alternatives

Belgo Soho

29-31 Old Compton Street, Soho, London, W1D 5JR

0.11 miles from here

Belgo

25 Shelton Street, Covent Garden, London, WC2H 9HW

0.13 miles from here

Belgo Centraal

50 Earlham Street, Covent Garden, London, WC2H 9LA

0.15 miles from here

Sign up for the latest
Sign up to our newsletter for the latest and greatest from London!
By entering your email address you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy and consent to receive email updates and newsletters from All In London. You can unsubscribe at any time.