If you can remember the previous inhabitants of Hackney’s old station then you’ll probably admit that this new multifaceted nightlife venue wasn’t coming in with much to live up to. In fact, the only similarity between Oslo and the club that came before is the amount of security standing on the door.
Open at last after numerous problems – some caused by subsidence in neighbouring buildings – Oslo is finally open. A club, events space, restaurant and bar, the owners have thrown a net on nightlife and come back with it all. Which is just as well because the space available over two floors is ample. Being that this was once an old station building, the charm is already there in the brickwork. Beyond this the ground floor is all concrete, indigo dripped fabric lightshades and awkward tables. If you’re not dining there is a sense of not knowing quite what to do with yourselves. If you’re not up on one of only a few high tables (for non-diners) or squashed around the walls then you’re in a bar-lean limbo scenario. Not the end of the world but those pretty fabric shades can only distract you from your achy calves for so long.
The bar is full of artisan, craft and continental beer as well as a good range of wine and prosecco. Brews include Red Hook, Crate, Paulaner, Brooklyn and Sierra Nevada. The bar menu is a mix of popular sliders and pulled meats with a twist. For example, the Duck and Slobber is an adventurous take on the classic meat and chips; double cooked chips, tossed with confit duck meat, served with plum ketchup. Yes please. The main menu presents open sandwiches and small and large sharing plates with Nordic influences. Think cod, smoked eel and crushed potatoes along with salt baked celeriac, spinach puree and pickled quail egg. And of course, there’s a burger. £12 lands you an aged longhorn patty, braised oxtail, horseradish cheddar, bone marrow mayo, hot oxtail shot and chips. Which is as good as it sounds.
And we’re not done yet. Upstairs you’ll find the remnants of what came before. A club and events space with a lively schedule of NME awards shows, established club nights and live bands - we’re guessing that’s what all the security on the door is for. Treating Oslo as a bar is probably the worst way to approach its many qualities. Take it all on; eat, drink and then go upstairs and be merry…