Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester

French Restaurant in Mayfair
Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester image
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7 / 10 from 3 reviews
Address
The Dorchester Hotel
53 Park Lane
Mayfair
London
W1K 1QA
Map
Telephone
020 7629 8866
Cuisine
French
Region
Mayfair
Nearest Station
Hyde Park Corner
0.36 miles
Opening Summary
Lunch:
Tues - Fri: 12:00 - 13.30

Dinner:
Tues - Sat: 18.30 - 21.30

Closed:
Sundays & Mondays, and for lunch on Saturdays.
Restaurant Facilities

Disabled Facilities

Children Welcome

Credit Cards Accepted

Music Played

Private Area

Booking Advisable

Honoured with three Michelin stars from the Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland since 2010, Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester offers contemporary French cuisine with a professional bespoke and friendly service orchestrated by Restaurant Director Damien Pépin. The restaurant has a top notch team headed by Executive Chef Jean-Philippe Blondet who interprets Alain Ducasse's cuisine in a modern refined way with the focus on seasonal ingredients which are simply yet intricately prepared. To compliment the cuisine, Head Sommelier Christopher Bothwell guides guests through an exclusive Wine List featuring over 1,000 unique wines.

The large and striking dining room has been designed by Jouin Manku. Elegant with high ceilings, large windows looking out onto the park, a modern chandelier of glowing leaves and shimmering light blends beautifully with the muted colours. The restaurant boasts 3 unique private dining rooms of various capacities suitable for intimate meals from 2 to 7 guests, or to large gatherings of up to 30 guests.

Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester Picture Gallery

Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester Picture
Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester Picture
Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester Picture
Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester Picture

All In London Review

I urge you to pluck up the courage to join the rich and privileged at this most elegant restaurant

Review Image
Walking along Park Lane is always a pleasure – much more so when you are on your way to The Dorchester - London residence to the stars and super rich. I had a small knot of nervousness bubbling inside as I knew that this was going to be a very special restaurant, having spent a while staring incredulously at the web site.

At reception I asked the concierge for directions to the restaurant and he did that relaxed walk allowing me to follow – open mouthed – through the most impressive opulent lounge. It was teeming with people (well, they do say that the credit crunch hasn’t affected the super rich) who all looked entirely at home – despite the enormous pots of exotic plants, the massive drapes and gilt everything looking down on the sofas and tables. I felt as if I was in one of those movies – trying hard not to stare and resisting the temptation to reach and to touch to see if it was real.

The two French hostesses – with uniforms apparently designed by Amanda Wakeley - at the entrance to the restaurant welcomed us warmly, taking our coats before opening the doors into a small lobby. Absolutely no pretension or arrogance here. Then we stepped into the restaurant. It was calm. Soft but not feminine. And spacious. You are literally stopped in your tracks.

The wall of what looked like stone gooseberries or mini apples is on the left, and there is a cosy table there with a fire behind at eye level. We were shown to a small table situated almost in the centre of the area. I must admit that I felt a little exposed. There was so much space between tables. I looked enviously at the mother and daughter who had been seated at the edge, between some pillars. At 730pm there was only one other table occupied – an American chap with what appeared to be a female work colleague. They looked completely at ease. I felt like the little village girl invited to dine with the king.

Behind them was the stunning Table Lumiere. A waterfall of 4,500 glistening fibre optic lights screening up to six diners from the public gaze. You can only wonder at who might have dined there. This feature dominates the room and draws your eyes which can’t quite believe what they are seeing.

The table decoration could have come from a fine art museum. The napkin dish and the knife rest were small works of metal art. The tableware (too ordinary a word for such beautiful objects) – was in a dove grey with a pale pearlescent pink design. On each table was a white enamelled porcelain sculpture – each unique – an artichoke on one, an onion on another (our enquiries revealed that they were made by Jean-Paul Gourdon in Puymican, France). Quite, quite beautiful.

We were offered a glass of champagne which was, predictably, a perfect start to our evening. We were given time to settle and admire the wondrous scene in front of us before being presented with the menu which I admit I had studied on the web site before coming. Despite the two Michelin stars I hadn’t been particularly impressed and had decided not to select those items which were marked as the speciality of chef Jocelyn Herland, I was later to regret this decision.

As I could only manage two glasses of wine (having a lecture to deliver the next morning at Guildford University) I put our wine selection in the hands of Head Sommelier Hugues Lepin. Despite his well deserved reputation, he was polite and patient with our questions. I do hope he wasn’t disappointed with our lack of sophisticated banter about his cellar.

Just after ordering we were presented with a huge bowl of savoury hollow brioche-like bites with a dusting of pepper along with a small porcelain egg which shimmered like an opal and contained crunchy vegetables and a creamy olive paste and a sprinkling of paprika or perhaps pepper. There was also a ball of butter and a dish of cream and cheese mousse – how could you possibly decide what to put on the bread?

So. For my starter I selected a hot and cold crab dish which arrived attractively presented in a glass and a dish. The cold dish had layers of brown crab meat jelly, juicy white crab meat and then an avocado cream. It was crowned with tiny carved crisp vegetables and apple. Whilst I am not a great fan of anything jelly, I have to admit that the flavours and textures worked well together. But the hot crab dish was incredible. Underneath a light froth that melted in your mouth like sea spray was a warm flavoursome fish stew with tender chunks of crab. It was a triumph.

But my companion had chosen one of those specials – delicate crayfish veloute, royale of foie gras. His plate was proudly presented and the waiter then poured the veloute onto the dish – crowned with a criss cross of Paris mushrooms - releasing the most amazing aroma. Close your eyes and you were transported to a French seaside town at suppertime. When the sommelier produced a bottle of 2005 Riesling Hengst Grand Cru Alsace Domaine Josmeyer my heart sank – the only Riesling I had ever had before was horribly sweet. But this was a glass of the most perfectly chilled, fruity but maturely dry wine I think I have ever tasted. The evening would have been memorable for that single glass of wine alone.

By 8pm the room was starting to fill – two Japanese couples, a couple from out of town (who looked as impressed as I felt) and a few other couples who appeared nonchalant to all the gorgeousness around them. There were one or two tables free, but it was quietly busy. And the army of waiting and wine staff – quiet, attentive and professional – ensured that there was a reasonable amount of movement. The gently increasing surrounding chatter made the place less intimidating. More relaxed.

Torn from the rapture induced by my crab and perfect white wine, my braised halibut with a shrimp and walnut crust and Chateau Chalon sauce followed. I was given a glass of Vehledron (Australian) – but I would have loved another of that Reisling. I have no criticism of my main course yet I was envious again of my companion who was presented with roasted rack and saddle of lamb in a nutty parsley butter. I kept asking him whether it was cooked properly because to me it looked dry, but he assured me that it was moist and perfectly pink and that the cooking sauces were excellent. His only very minor grumble was that some menfolk might like a few more vegetables for their larger appetites.

A lemon sorbet with mango arrived to cleanse our palates. Not having a sweet tooth we opted for the cheese platter and this was possibly the best decision of the evening. Four cheeses – which we were instructed to eat from left to right – each with its own carefully selected accompaniment – a goats cheese with a piquant chilli jelly, camembert with a crisp green salad and apple shards, a firm nutty cheese with grated macadamias and Roquefort with a mustard jelly.

The dark and milk chocolates arrived with our large espressos with a thick covering of crema in delightful cups which were decorated with bright green blades of grass.

I admit that I am not a genuine foody so my apologies to those who find my description of this fine food unsophisticated but I have eaten in some of the best restaurants in the world and I would place this one amongst them. The food was awesome but the warm, efficient staff (who were more than happy to repeat their heavily accented explanations and to answer all manner of our probably rather naïve questions) providing the perfect level of attention (not too much, not too little) to everyone regardless of their status or income and the beautiful room which is a feast for the eyes made this a truly magical experience.

For one of the best restaurants in London you expect to pay a lot and with three courses costing £95 it would be sensible really to go for the tasting menu of seven small courses – encapsulating most of those chef’s signature dishes- at £115. There is also a special black truffle supplement – indeed an entire menu of dishes which use this fragrant ingredient. But for those of us who live on more modest means there is a special new lunch menu at £39.50 for two courses including wine and coffee. I urge you to pluck up the courage to join the rich and privileged at this most elegant restaurant next time you want a really special and memorable meal out.

Reviewed by KimT
Published on Feb 23, 2009


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Best For

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London's best Fine Dining Restaurants

So much more than just a dandy plate of food

It’s hard to imagine French cuisine getting any better than this. The attention to detail is second to none, from the perfect cooking to the pairing of cheeses with individual condiments to suit, and entering the beautiful dining room is akin to stepping into a different, far more opulent world.

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Our pick of London's award-winning restaurants

These have all picked up a gong or two... or three

Along with Restaurant Gordon Ramsay this is the only other London restaurant to currently boast three Michelin stars. It has also received awards for its wine, for being the “best culinary experience” in the Virtuoso Best of Best Awards 2010, and consistently ranks highly in the Zagat Survey and the Good Food Guide.

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Our pick of Michelin-starred restaurants

The most influential gastronomic ratings in Europe

Alain Ducasse may well be the übermensch of the gastronomical world, having picked up a serious collection of awards over the years, along with 15 Michelin stars shared among his various restaurants. He may not be in the kitchen himself at the Dorchester, but chef Jocelyn Herland’s cuisine is big on strong flavours, unexpected textures and pulchritudinous presentation.

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London's restaurants rated best for service

We celebrate London's outstanding service

Super-luxe Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester has three Michelin stars and high prices, while service is warm and attentive. From head chef Jocelyn Herland: “I have never worked before in an environment as dynamic as Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester. The energy at work is very positive and everyone is giving their best to achieve excellence. I am impressed by the harmony in between the different departments, front of house, kitchen, reservations and marketing.”

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London's most expensive restaurants

It doesn't hurt to push the boat out

As if its location within one of London’s most luxurious hotels and its “reassuringly expensive” menu weren’t enough, the private dining room at Alain Ducasse at the Dorchesteris as opulent as they come. The Table Lumière is sheltered by a circular curtain made from over four thousand fibre optic lights which falls from floor to ceiling, and guests eat off Hermès china. But perhaps its most extravagant aspect is that it’s positioned in the middle of the dining room, in full view of envious diners.

User Reviews

Gus Woltmann
from London

Jan 18, 2024

Stepping into Alain Ducasse was like entering a world of refined luxury. The opulent ambiance, with its subtle lighting, plush furnishings, and tasteful decor, set the stage for an exquisite dining affair that promised both sophistication and indulgence.
GP
from London

Jun 23, 2014

Fantastic service and beautifully presented food. Is it head and shoulders above 99% of other restaurants in London? No. The food is great and the service up to the standard you'd expect but my issue with Alain Ducasse is the price, I just can't justify paying £500+ for a two diner lunch, anywhere.

As mentioned great food and service, decor is ok if a little bland. For my money it should be priced about 50% less as there are far too many other places to spend a few hundred pounds for a comparable quality of food and service.


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