"A serious contender for London’s best burger"Review Rating: Reviewed by Leila
I’m just going to come out and say it: up until recently my favourite burger was done by Honest Burgers. Not that I’ve travelled the four corners of London sampling every patty available like some devotees have, but out of the sizeable selection I’ve come across so far their juicy beef, cakey glazed buns, smoky bacon and perfectly-seasoned rosemary fries were the most impressive.
Then one day I went to Tooting, once home to little more than a smattering of good South Indian restaurants, now one of the many contenders for the title of “the new Shoreditch”. Soho House’s Chicken Shack and trendy coffee and cocktail bar The Imperial Durbar have set up home here; there’s even a local wine called Chateau Tooting.
Meat & Shake is all about burgers and milkshakes. On our visit the “guest burger” is a fantastic umami bomb: rashers of bacon and a thick patty flavoured with salty marmite, with a slice of tomato and melted cheese. We also like the Von Longhorn, a towering combo of beef, matchstick fries, sautéed onions, turkey bacon, Monterey cheese and aioli topped with a chunky onion ring. It’s a tough challenge, but the Dirty Fries very nearly outdo the burgers by piling a liberal amount of mince, cheese, spicy jalapenos, American mustard and sour cream over chips. Buttermilk chicken has the perfect ratio of juicy and crispy, and just in case you need more calories there are the milkshakes: we try a sumptuous creamy concoction with peanut butter, pieces of banana and brownie, but the fig and cinnamon shake is quite special too.
We love it all, from the background music (Diana Ross and The Supremes, Marc Almond) which the super-jovial manager sings along with, to the patterned ceramic crockery. Honest Burgers have a serious rival in SW17.
Leila reviewed Meat & Shake on Mon 18 May 2015