Where is it?
Hammersmith can just about be considered “up the road” from Kensington and Notting Hill by the aspirational, otherwise it’s the bit of west London just north of the Thames before all the leafiness of Chiswick begins. The main transport hub at Hammersmith Broadway suffers from having an unappealing traffic interchange along with the A4 flyover, but it’s well connected by tube and bus.
You’re making it sound a bit… ugly
Not at all, it’s just like a more urban Richmond. While bits of it are a concrete jungle, there is some very interesting futuristic-looking architecture too. Did you know London’s very first eco-friendly building was built here in 1992? The Ark, so-called because it resembles a ship, has an energy-saving cooling system, which perhaps the designers thought would be a good idea as a contrast to the polluted motorway outside. Another landmark is Hammersmith Bridge, especially stunning by night, and let’s not forget the river Thames bordered by charming pubs with alfresco terraces. Admittedly there is very little in terms of green space, aside from peaceful Ravenscourt Park.
Tell me more
As with much of outer London there was some industry here in the 19th century, the best known company being tea manufacturers Lyons. The warehouses were situated next to slums were the workers lived, in conditions similar to those of the infamous East End slums. In fact the area by the river was once known as “Little Wapping”. Although the industry has died out today large companies like L’Oreal and Disney have their UK headquarters here.
In the 20th century Hammersmith became more affluent, a case in point was the opening of St. Paul’s Girls School in 1904 (to give you an idea, Carol Thatcher studied here). Within a few years the school had to stop visiting the nearby public baths as the local boys would pull the girls’ pig tails, however we can’t confirm whether this was an early demonstration of revolt against the class system on the part of the boys or whether they just liked picking on girls.
In the 1950s there were frequent reports of violence between gang members, mostly Teddy Boys from surrounding neighbourhoods like Battersea, Fulham and Notting Hill, who would conveniently rendez-vous here. The suspension bridge has also been the target of IRA bombers over the years.
\n\nWho lives there?
It’s not a cheap and despite its many transport links it’s a little removed from central London, so it’s popular with affluent families rather than young urbanites. There are pretty terraced houses in pastel colours, mansion blocks and a few detached homes, mostly Victorian or Georgian, the majority of which can only be afforded by those on good salaries. However Hammersmith is also home to a small Polish community and there’s some overspill of Australians from Acton and Ealing, so you’ll see Polish delis scattered along King Street and groups of Aussies piling out of the local pubs at closing time (not that we’re stereotyping anyone).
Lilly Allen, Sacha Baron Cohen and Hugh Grant were born here, while Bill Bailey and Ralph Fiennes live on Hammersmith Grove.
Any other claims to fame?
Hammersmith pops up in Charles Dickens’ novel Great Expectations and is also the name of a piece of music by classical composer Gustav Holst. William Morris lived here, and in his novel News From Nowhere the protagonist lives unhappily in Hammersmith till he wakes up one day to find that capitalism has been eradicated and the world is a better place. Didn’t quite turn out like that though…
Ah. On that note, what’s the shopping like?
Compared to the house prices, the shops are relatively cheap. There are high street shops at Kings Mall and Broadway Shopping Centre, including a Primark and a TK Maxx. Although food shopping is restricted to Tesco and Sainsbury there is a farmers’ market every Thursday on Lyric Square.
\n\nWhat is there to do?
There is plenty for foodies along King Street, extending all the way out to Chiswick. Our favourites include posh fish and chip shop Kerbisher & Malt, and Indian restaurants Potli and Indian Zing. The acclaimed River Café overlooks the Thames and is where top chefs such as Theo Randall, Jamie Oliver and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall cut their teeth.
There’s a large quantity of drinking holes too, from reliably middle-of-the-road chains like Belushi’s and Be At One to riverside pubs like the Dove, which has existed since the 17th century, and has been frequented by Charles II, Graham Greene and Ernest Hemingway over the years.
The fantastic Riverside Studios is located here, with an arthouse cinema programme, theatre, exhibitions and an above average restaurant for a complex of this sort. The area is also home to the Lyric Theatre and live music venue Eventim Apollo. If you don’t recognise the name, that’s because it used to be called the Hammersmith Apollo, and the Hammersmith Odeon before that. Legendary acts like the Beatles, the Rolling Stones and Bob Marley have played here. The Hammersmith Palais, which was name checked in a song by the Clash, has recently been turned into student digs.
Anything else I should know?
In 2002 Hollywood actor Willem Dafoe appeared in the buff, but it was all part of a play at the Lyric Theatre. He did however prompt one enthusiastic female audience member to gasp with joy.
