"Great food, good atmosphere. Go for the weekend bottomless brunch."Review Rating: Reviewed by T.A.O
After the success of Bone Daddies, Flesh and Buns was established to further the spread of Japanese inspired junk food in London. And it works.
Deep in a basement on Covent Garden’s Earlham Street, the not quite titillatingly titled Flesh and Buns is really to be billed as ‘an experience’. And if, like us, you’re here for the bottomless brunch, then you can multiply the ‘experience’ levels by double. The modern, semi-industrial restaurant is set up with two long high tables running down the middle and a smattering of tables and booths along the edges. But with two hours of all you can eat dishes, buns and Prosecco to worry about, that’s about all the attention the style was going to get – until I hit the bathrooms. Covered with an array of images of uber-sexual Japanese Manga girls this out of sight awkward toilet was all a bit naff. The ‘rock ‘n’ roll izakaya’ shtick works in Bone Daddies but the toilets left Flesh and Buns feeling more Dad Rock.
For £39, the brunch menu allows you unlimited Prosecco, a cocktail on arrival, one of each of the four meat and bun dishes and all the small plates you can handle. It’s a bargain. A solid salmon sashimi but a rather dull ceviche provided a mixed start, before a portion of sticky Korean wings picked things up. Gloriously sweet and spicy, we could have kept ordering them but in their place came the chicken yakitori skewers, which were almost equally delicious in all their teriyaki-glazed glory.
The buns are no doubt the main event here and with a choice of grilled chicken, belly piglet, crispy mackerel and roasted duck with assorted pickles, glazes and sauces, there is something for everyone. Sweet, salty Unami hits you with every bite and the dry Prosecco on hand only keeps you going back quicker and quicker. If you like big flavours, heavy meat and a pure absence of subtlety then this is the brunch for you.
We finish the meal with doughnuts and sesame crème brulee, which although delicious, is almost forgotten following close to two hours of feasting. Eating the amount we ate outside of the bottomless brunch would cost a small fortune. So if you want to try a little of everything then that’s the way to do it. The experience was well worth trying, just head into it expecting to leave very full and very tipsy.
T.A.O reviewed Flesh & Buns on Fri 05 Jun 2015