Le Gavroche is a class act, something the Roux brothers set out to achieve when they opened this restaurant in 1967. Now Michel Roux Jr. is in charge, and he continues to deliver the same high standards; he’s in the kitchen every day, and does a round of the room to greet the guests every lunch and dinnertime. He is also becoming a household name thanks to his appearances on BBC’s Masterchef.
Le Gavroche is a tightly run operation; the composition of the dishes, presentation, and service are faultless. The dining room décor may be a bit passé, but this is almost immediately forgotten. It’s also pricey (and is in the Guinness Book of Records for serving the most expensive meal in history) but there’s a £52 tasting menu with three courses, half a bottle of wine, coffee and petits fours which is exceptional value.
Le Gavroche
9 / 10 from 8 reviews
47 Park Street Hotel
43 Upper Brook Street
Mayfair
London
W1K 7QP
020 7408 0881
French
Mayfair
Monday - Friday: 12:00 - 14.00 & 18.30 - 23.00;
Saturday: 18.30 - 23.00.
Menu last orders 22.00.
Children Welcome
Credit Cards Accepted
Booking Advisable
Le Gavroche Picture Gallery
All In London Review
Le Gavroche dishes up the food of kings
The décor may appear to have changed little in the last four decades, but it’s a grower, after a little while it becomes apparent that the fussy carpeted floor does a good job of muting the clattering of shoes. Plates are painted with colourful images of the “gavroche” or street urchin that gives the restaurant its name, as well as of Roux Jr. himself. Even the cutlery is adorned with figurines, and it’s all for sale, along with the striking frog that sits on the table which we later find out costs a mere £2,000.
No less than three amuse bouche arrive in quick succession, all with good strong flavours: crispy Parmesan straws, well-seasoned egg mayonnaise vol-au-vents, and delicious smoked eel with horseradish crostini.
We decide to compare dishes from both the set lunch menu and the à la carte, after all, Le Gavroche is in the Guinness Book of Records for having served the most expensive meal in history (a cool £13,000 among three people in 1997). On the other hand, the set menu offers fantastic value with a three course meal plus half a bottle of wine, coffee and petits fours for just over £50.
The ragoût of moules has shelled mussels in a light, silky chowder, with earthy chestnut mushrooms, and parsley adding a hint of grassiness to the broth. Another starter pairs a boiled egg, crumbed, with exceptionally creamy boudin noir. A slightly piquant tomato chutney cuts through this rich blood sausage, and there is a salad with sliced raw asparagus, cured ham and a piece of salty crackling, it’s a little like a deluxe fried breakfast.
The roast saddle of rabbit comes with a number of tasty accoutrements: a large “galette” of Parmesan serves as a lid, covering juicy mushrooms and potato crisps, along with artichoke hearts and roasted caramelised garlic, all complementing the flavour of game.
A firm, meaty hunk of John Dory has been roasted just enough so that it remains moist and flakes to the touch. The fish is served atop a potato rösti with shelled crunchy broad beans; it's a clever mix of textures.
It’s great news that it’s impossible to tell which menu each dish has been ordered from; the ragoût and John Dory from the set lunch rate just as highly as the food from the à la carte. Then the monumental cheese trolley makes an appearance; surely this is what heaven is all about. There is so much to try, the saltiness of the ten month aged Beaufort, a sharp, very fresh goat’s cheese, pungent yet creamy Munster… And the Maroille, a curious soft cheese mixed with garlic and spices, with a powdery texture and bright red rind nicknamed the “devil’s suppository” because of its shape and robust taste.
Of course there are dessert wines galore for such an incredible array; we’re particularly struck by the syrupy red Banyuls Reserva. Dessert is a delicate mille feuille made with wafer-thin pastry, with raspberries and praline chocolate cream.
It’s the food of kings, put simply, but the key is that simple ingredients are put together with such skill they produce results that are close to perfection. Service is seamless, we may well have been served by six different members of staff, but they’re all so in tune it’s hardly noticeable. You wouldn’t expect this to come cheap (there are starters costing over £40 for heaven’s sake) but, if you do have the money, you’d be well-advised to spend it here.
Reviewed by Leila
Published on Jun 12, 2012
Useful Tips from AIL Users
You are more likely to get a table at short notice on a Monday.
I'd urge you to do the Somelier's wine pairings with the Chef's Menu, they're fantastic! The Chateau Cabezac "Belveze" 2005 was particularly good.
Even though the cheese selection on the Chef's Menu is delicious, don't over-indulge as there's still quite a lot of food to come... you'll be too full for pudding!
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The reputation of the Roux family’s Michelin-starred restaurant alone will be enough to make an impression on your date. It's well deserved, as Michel Roux Jr. serves some of the most exquisitely prepared food in the capital. Let the sommelier take care of the wine, and ask them to wheel their tremendous cheese trolley over after your meal. One for splurging.
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Le Gavroche was voted best restaurant in Europe by the 2012 Traveller’s Choice Restaurant Awards, yet another accolade to add to a lengthy list of Michelin stars and high rankings from AA, World’s 50 Best Restaurants and the Good Food Guide. In 1982 it became the first British restaurant to earn 3 coveted stars (it retains two). More recently Michel Roux Jr. was given a Lifetime Achievement Award by Tatler magazine.
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It’s not often that a meal requiring you to take out a second mortgage is worth the money, and while we wouldn’t recommend you use up your life savings on a meal, in the case of Le Gavroche, it’s true. Michel Roux Jr.’s superb cuisine, coupled with service that is second to none ensure this restaurant continues to be an institution more than 40 years after opening.
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Le Gavroche was first opened by brothers Michel and Albert Roux in 1967. Their classic Gallic cuisine earned them three Michelin stars, making this the first UK restaurant to do so. Now with Michel Roux Jr in charge, the menu has allowed European and Asian influences to seep in. It is still regarded as one of London’s top eateries (despite losing a star) and there’s normally a lengthy waiting list to book a table.
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Michel Roux Jr. has lent his expert opinion to MasterChef as well as having appeared in Gordon Ramsay’s Hell’s Kitchen. He also runs one of London’s most acclaimed restaurants, having taken over the reins from his father Albert.
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The front of house at Le Gavroche is exceptional: staff never put a food wrong, are incredibly considerate and will serve your meal with a smile. The attention to detail provided by everyone from manager Emmanuel Landre down to every last member of staff sets the benchmark for what restaurants should aspire to.
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Le Gavroche once made headlines for serving the most expensive meal in history, but you’ll be glad to know it’s possible to eat like an emperor for under £60 if you visit at lunchtime. This veteran French restaurant is decidedly old school, from the carpeted dining room to Michel Roux Jr’s ritual greeting of guests during service.
User Reviews
Jun 24, 2014
SO hard to picka favourite course - probably the Langoustine and Hereford snails in hollandaise sauce. Yum!
from London
Aug 8, 2013
Exquisite meal!
from Out of town
Feb 4, 2013
Name: Bec
Location: Out of town
Jan 31, 2013
Apr 10, 2012
Jan 25, 2010
Aug 29, 2007
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